Greece: Epirus in autumn is enchanting and lonely

SThe lake is shiny as a mirror. Above that is a long mountain range with white cloud towers against a clear blue sky. It is pleasantly warm here until the end of October and the beginning of November. The ferry takes only a few minutes from the provincial capital Ioannina to the island in Lake Pamvotida with its historic monasteries from the Middle Ages.

In 1822 the ruler Ali Pasha, notorious for his cruelty, fled from his Ottoman opponents here to the medieval Panteleimon monastery. Hidden in a cellar cell, the 82-year-old tyrant, known as the Lion of Ioannina, was tracked down and killed. Only his costumes have remained in the monastery museum, including instruments of torture and swords, which in the end were of no use to the Pasha.

On the island’s steep stairway to the older Moni Agios Nikolaos Filanthropinon monastery, you can quickly work up a sweat. The name of the historical building goes back to the clergy of a family who once came from Constantinople to Ioannina and founded the first spiritual center on the island, says the local Greek guide Irini Mimistri.

Source: WORLD infographic

The remote monastery is famous for its colored wall paintings that adorn the rooms, most of which date from the 16th century. Holy Mass is celebrated here once a day.

On the steps back down, you won’t meet a soul when you pass the small settlement on the northern shore of the island with its one-story stone houses under tall trees. Small paddle boats bob around in the water next to thick reeds. “Traditionally, people here live from fishing and frog breeding,” says Mimistri. “But most of the 120 families commute back and forth.”

Enchanted streets in the old town of Ioannina

Back in Ioannina, the capital of Epirus. The metropolis of the Greek northwest with its 168,000 inhabitants appears surprisingly tranquil. When walking through the winding streets of the old town in the late afternoon, only a few people are out and about.

It is the city that said Ali Pasha made great in the 18th century. He was an Albanian and through murder and intrigue was able to rise to the position of the wealthy city’s pasha in 1788. After a relatively short time he ruled large parts of Macedonia, Albania, Thessaly and the Peloponnese.

Greece: Ioannina on Lake Pamvotida is the capital of the Epirus province

Ioannina on Lake Pamvotida is the capital of the Epirus province

Quelle: Getty Images/Posnov

Before he fled to the island, the pasha resided in a fortress that reached far into the lake. The castle hill was built on a huge embankment. The facility was totally destroyed in a fire in 1870.

Today there is a Byzantine museum in the same place. Twenty kilometers to the south lies Greece’s oldest oracle site on a plateau below the almost 2000 meter high Tomaros Mountains, the ancient Zeus sanctuary Dodona, which dates back to the late 4th century BC.

The Oracle of Zeus in Dodona

At the edge of the mountains you approach the amphitheater on the plain covered with trees, bushes and flowering shrubs. And suddenly stands in the warm autumn sun in front of the stone semicircle from ancient times – again as the only visitor.

Only a few craftsmen are currently working on the seats in the amphitheater. The condition of the 25 stone rows of seats made of simple limestone is poor, each plate has to be cleaned and sealed.

“The oracle of Zeus here in Dodona is older than that of Delphi”, Irini Mimistri draws the comparison to the much better known place of worship, which the Greeks for a time considered the center of the world. “But like all of Epirus, it was very remote until recently.” Delphi on Parnassus, on the other hand, was there at an important crossroads with connections in all directions. “And so it became more famous than Dodona.”

Epirus (Greece): The amphitheater of Dodona had a capacity of 18,000 people

The Dodona amphitheater had a capacity of 18,000 people

Quelle: Getty Images/PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS TILIS

It was King Pyrrhus, ruler of the Molossian tribe, known as the fiery head because of his red hair, who brought the ancient sanctuary and oracle of Epirus under his rule early on. For the Epiroten, as the inhabitants of the Epiros region call themselves, he had the cult site expanded into a religious and cultural center with a spectator area of ​​18,000 seats.

At that time, Zeus was worshiped as the highest god under a sacred oak. From the rustling of the leaves and the cooing of the doves, priestesses fathomed the will of the gods. Tripod cauldrons made of bronze surrounded the oak and were struck and made to sound in Zeus’ honor. At that time, until the 3rd century BC, most of the buildings in the sacred area of ​​the oracle were built, it was its heyday.

Festival planned in the ancient theaters

Around seven centuries later, when Christianity became the predominant religion in the east of the Roman Empire, Emperor Theodosius the Great had all ancient sanctuaries destroyed. He ordered the sacred Zeus oak to be torn down and removed along with its roots.

Anything to do with worshiping the old gods was forbidden by decree. But the ancient world of gods has long since risen again – not as a cult, but as a return to one’s own culture.

Also this year in Ioannina there will be a festival of tragedies and comedies in all the ancient theaters. And with a little luck there will be performances again after years of restorations in the oracle. After “Elektra” was last played here from 1960, the 2000 year old theater has been closed since 1998.

Remote villages in the mountains of Epirus

The next morning we set off for the mountainous north-west of Epirus, in that sparsely populated region with peaks more than 2000 meters high, deep valleys and gorges, where, like almost everywhere in Greece, one encounters herds of sheep. The tour to the remote villages of the Zagorochoria, known as Zagori for short, leads over winding roads with wonderful views.

Greece: The remote villages of the Zagorochoria, or Zagori for short, are located in the mountainous north-west of Epirus

The remote villages of the Zagorochoria, or Zagori for short, are located in the mountainous north-west of Epirus

Quelle: Getty Images/PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS TILIS

Around noon a mighty mountain range appears on the horizon. It is the almost 2500 meter high Tymfi mountain range in the Pindos Mountains. The massif can also be seen in the distance from the “Lithos” restaurant in the village of Dilofo.

At lunch on this warm summer autumn day on the terrace, the table bends under all the delicious starters and salads, followed by meat dishes and vegetarian mushroom creations. Finally there is the traditional “Epirus pie”.

The longest and deepest canyon in Greece

The sun is already low when the village of Kipoi comes into view, whose stone-roofed houses nestle against a steep slope. You can’t tell from the look of the hamlet that it was once the capital of the 46 villages in the heart of the region.

The villages, shielded by the high mountains, emerged around the year 1400, when the population tried to flee from the Muslim Ottomans. By clever tactics, they were largely spared from attacks. They even received special privileges for self-government, but had to pay copious amounts of taxes.

Today only a good 100 people live in Kipoi. The main attraction are the arch bridges from the 17th and 18th centuries in the rocky surroundings of the village. For example the single-arched Lazaridi-Kontodimou bridge from 1764, which leads over a gorge to a steep rock face.

Epirus (Greece): Around the village of Kipoi there are beautiful arched bridges from the 17th and 18th centuries

In the vicinity of the village of Kipoi there are beautiful arched bridges from the 17th and 18th centuries

Quelle: Getty Images/PHOTO BY DIMITRIOS TILIS

But the climax in the Zagori region is yet to come. It is the Vikos Gorge, the longest and deepest gorge in Greece: twelve kilometers long, up to 1000 meters of steep rock faces. On a high-altitude path, one approaches the Oxia lookout point with a sensational view of the Vikos Gorge opposite, which has dug deep into the mighty rock walls.

No water can be seen in the gorge. That flows under the rocks today. But on the erosion of the rock formations you can still see the different heights of the former river banks. What you can still see: curvy rock formations, formed in the Ice Age. Not only gods shaped the area, but also glaciers that created this divine sight.

Epirus (Greece): The Vikos Gorge is twelve kilometers long, the steep rock walls drop down to 1000 meters

Impressive: The Vikos Gorge is twelve kilometers long, the rock walls drop down to 1000 meters

Quelle: Getty Images/Maya Karkalicheva

Tips and information

Getting there: For example with Aegean Airlines via Athens to Ioannina. Those who fly to Athens alternatively with Lufthansa or Easyjet can also reach Ioannina from there with the domestic airline Sky Express.

Accommodation: In the “Epirus Palace Hotel”, a palatial hotel near Ioannina, an overnight stay with breakfast in a double room costs around 100 euros (epiruspalace.gr). In the renovated “Kipi Suites” in Zagori (ariahotels.gr), an overnight stay in a double room including breakfast costs from 60 euros.

Information desk: discovergreece.com

Participation in the trip was supported by Marketing Greece. You can find our standards of transparency and journalistic independence at axelspringer.de/unabhaengigkeit.

also read

Holidaymaker in Lindos on the island of Rhodes (Greece)

Fewer and fewer holiday destinations can be visited

More and more countries are considered risk areas and that shortly before the autumn break. Politicians recommend vacation in your own country, if at all. The travel industry is in a crisis of survival.

Source: WELT / Perdita Heise

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San Pablo Burgos is crowned at the Athens Olympic Games

The Hereda San Pablo Burgos has been proclaimed champion of the Basketball Champions League by beating AEK Athens 85-74 after coming back from a bad first quarter.

The outside success served Joan Peñarroya’s men to win the first European title in their first continental participation and make basketball history.

The match had a clear dominance in the first half, as AEK entered the game better (3-9) with an unstoppable Keith Langford who put the first advantage for the Greeks based on easy points.

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San Pablo Burgos

(14 + 35 + 19 + 17): Dejan Kravic (1), Vitor Benite (11), Jasiel Rivero (2), Xavi Rabaseda (5), Alex Renfroe (11) – starting five- Kareem Queeley (-), Alex Barrera (), Miquel Salvó (12), Thad McFadden (12), Jordan Sakho (2), Omar Cook (15) and Ken Horton (8).

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AEK de Atenas

(24 + 12 + 13 + 25): Yannick Moreira (5), Keith Langford (11), Vlado Jankovic (1), Linos Chrysikopoulos (8), Nikos Gkikas (5) -cinco initial- Tyrese Rice (15), Jonas Maciulis (6), Nikos Zisis (4), Matt Lojeski (9), Nikos Rogkavopoulos (), Darion Atkins () and Marcus Slaughter (8).

referees:

Manuel Mazzioni (Italy), Yohan Rosso (France), Eddie Viator (France).

incidents:

Basketball Champions League final held at the OAKA Olympic Indoor Hall in Athens (Greece) behind closed doors.

All Burgos errors were transformed into points for AEK, especially with the entry of Tyrese Rice, unstoppable for Joan Peñarroya’s men who went into the break with a 14-24 disadvantage.

The second quarter completely changed the rhythm of the game, as the Hereda San Pablo Burgos of the first half disappeared giving way to a team that had practically total success from the triple and scored 35 points in a quarter.

Omar Cook with four triples almost in a row, supported by the defense of Miquel Salvó put the tie at 31 points on the scoreboard, while Ilias Papatheodorou put Langford back on the field.

The Burgos stopped the MVP of the regular league this season and that was when Thad McFadden and Ken Horton appeared, from the triple forcing the Greek team to stop the game (42-35).

The azulones were not going to stop because they wanted to make history by winning the match and with a very choral game, they went to rest with an advantage of 13 points (49-36).

Defense and exterior success were once again the key for Joan Peñarroya’s men to continue their particular points climb (56-41).

AEK player Marcus Slaugther had to withdraw from the pitch with knee discomfort after a fall that, coupled with personal fouls by Vlado Jankovic, left the Hellenes in trouble.

Those of Peñarroya and their love affair with the triple were running out of time while they took out of the match the Greeks who could not cope with the Burgos offensive who left with 15 triples, at the end of the third quarter and an advantage that allowed those of Peñarroya (68-49).

Slaugther returned to the field, leaving his fall in a scare, which gave more defensive intensity to AEK than together with the entrance of Matt Lojeski they reduced the distance with four triples in a row (75-61).

After Joan Peñarroya’s time-out, the two teams were exchanging baskets maintaining an income of 13 points (83-70), although the Hereda San Pablo Burgos had some inaccuracies in the absence of two minutes that served the Greeks to come up.

With nothing to lose, the Greeks became more intense not to let the Burgos team score easily, but the income was enough and the Burgos made history by beating AEK 85-74.

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Germany still on the front line for welcoming migrants

Angela Merkel continues to open the doors to refugees, particularly from the camps in Greece, but is more cautious than in 2015 to defuse criticism from the AfD.

Syrian and Iraqi migrants take pictures with Angela Merkel on September 10, 2015 in Berlin.
Syrian and Iraqi migrants take their picture with Angela Merkel on September 10, 2015 in Berlin. Fabrizio Bensch/REUTERS

Correspondent in Berlin

Of all European countries, Germany is the one that issues the most asylum rights – 116,000 in 2018 – and takes in the most minor, sick or unaccompanied children. Again on September 15, the Merkel government, at the forefront of the Twenty-Seven, announced that it would receive 1,553 refugees from five Greek islands. But for many, across the Rhine, the account is not there.

Sunday, under the slogan “there is fire and we have room ”, several thousand people marched in Berlin, Cologne, Munich and Leipzig to demand a greater participation of their country in the humanitarian crisis created by the fire of the Moria camp. In the capital alone, 5,000 had gathered in the multicultural district of Moabit, where the aunt of Alan Kurdi, the drowned Syrian boy who had become the emblem of the tragedy, urged the Twenty-Seven to “Do not close your eyes and turn your back” to migrants stranded on European coasts. “We must

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Cyclone “Ianos”: Severe damage in Greece

Athens – Cyclone Ianos caused severe damage in many places in Greece over the weekend. The Greek media reported on Monday about a “catastrophe of biblical proportions” on the western Greek island of Kefalonia. Pictures showed cars buried by stone avalanches, so strong were the masses of water that washed up the ground. Roads collapsed, boats sank in ports.

In the city of Karditsa in Thessaly, the extent of the damage only became apparent on Monday. In the region, “Ianos” connected with a storm over the North Aegean over the weekend and raged. The resulting storm left three dead, one woman is still missing. According to reports, around 15 bridges are said to have been damaged and more than 5,000 houses flooded, and animals drowned in the stables. Some houses and villages are still locked because masses of earth or water currents prevented access, reported the Greek TV station Skai.

A medicane like “Ianos” is a storm depression that can form in the Mediterranean region towards the end of summer when the water there is still high. In the past few years, Greece has been hit by storms and heavy rain, and injuries and deaths are often to be mourned. Only in August eight people were killed, including a toddler, in a huge heat thunderstorm over the island of Evia. (WHAT, dpa)

Ein zerstörtes Haus in Mouzaki.

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Greek newspaper insults Erdogan – Turkey angry

The gas conflict between Turkey and Greece is coming to a head again. A Greek newspaper insults President Erdogan, Turkey condemns the “shameless” publication and calls on Athens to act.

A Greek newspaper poured fuel on the fire in the bitter gas dispute between Athens and Ankara. The paper “Demokratia” published a photo of the Turkish head of state Recep Tayyip Erdogan with the heading “Fuck off, Mr. Erdogan”. In order for the message to get through, it was also included in English translation. The Turkish presidential office complained in a letter to the Greek government about how government spokesman Stelios Petsas made public on Saturday.

“I strongly condemn the publication of insults against our President (…) on the front page of a right-wing extremist newspaper,” wrote the head of communications at the Turkish Presidential Office, Fahrettin Altun. The government must hold those responsible for this “shameless” publication to account.

Greek Foreign Ministry speaks of freedom of the press

Insulting a foreign head of state is “nothing but a sign of helplessness and a lack of common sense and does not fall within the spectrum of freedom of the press or freedom of expression,” said Altun. The Greek Foreign Ministry on Friday distanced itself from the abuse, which was also spread via the newspaper’s website, and rejected Turkish criticism of the government’s address in Athens.

Freedom of expression enjoys full protection in Greece, said the Foreign Ministry in Athens. However, the use of offensive language contradicts “the political culture of our country and can only be condemned”. The Turkish Foreign Ministry reacted on Friday to the insulting Erdogan by summoning the Greek ambassador in Ankara.

Since the discovery of rich gas deposits in the eastern Mediterranean, there has been heated debate over their exploitation. The EU members Greece and Cyprus as well as Turkey lay claim to the sea areas concerned and underpin this by sending warships.

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After the fire in Moria: between cynics and moral apostles


Protests after the fire in Moria near a new temporary reception center on Lesbos.
Image: EPA

The Moria case shows that migration cannot be suppressed, but neither is it a sacred good. Politics must be about practical solutions, even if there are ideal ideas behind them.

EThere is a cynical logic of looking the other way in the Moria case: If one cares too much about the homeless migrants, according to the apologists for the isolation, the next arson and the free ticket to the mainland of the EU are programmed. The other extreme: there is room for everyone in Germany, so the advocates of free migration, so why not bring all migrants from Lesbos and from Samos, Leros and Chios here? These are the well-known extremes from the days of the refugee crisis and asylum debates, one as moralizing and polarizing as the other, both perhaps capable of campaigning, but incapable of engaging in politics.

What could it look like? Greece must come first for political considerations. What can and must he do himself, how can he be helped? But above all: what can it not do by itself? The EU is currently imposing an asylum-political border regime on the Greeks that is only open to one side, the Aegean. There is no regulated distribution in the EU; This has been a matter of dispute since the days of the Schengen Agreement, that is to say for thirty years.

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Greg Foat, atours d’horizons – Culture / Next

You must have listened to the Love Theme, released in 2015 on the excellent Jazzman label, or The Solar Winds released two years later on Athens of the North, to know that Greg Foat is a musician who counts across the Channel. The thing, to tell the truth, is not new since this pianist was from his first album, Dark Is the Sun in 2011, put forward by the guru of the British scene Gilles Peterson. Since then, he has been weaving a universe that has managed to rise to the height of the influences that have nourished this collector of rarities: the masters of panoramic and soaring trendy soundtracks as well as the aesthetes of cosmic-style jazz funk. These are also qualities that make all the attraction of this Peaceful Symphony, inaugurating its signature on Strut.

Certainly, over the years, the formula has smoothed out slightly, and his way of composing may denote some manufacturing tics, a tendency to incline towards the crossover more than to dare the oblique, but the native of the island de Wight remains a remarkable ambianceur, capable of moving the feet as well as pricking up the ears. And even a serious improviser on keyboards. All the more inspired since it can count on such a large team (harp, guitars, brass and wind sections, also strings, full choir) as strong enough to vary the pleasures, like the rhythm ( Phil Achille on bass, Eric Young on congas and Moses Boyd on drumsticks) who adds a little dynamic to the first single, Nikinakinu, despite everything written even in his solos (Fender, trumpet then sax) in a very vintage Blue Note vein. There is worse as a reference, and efficiency presides in the absence of originality. As always or almost with Greg Foat, this one emerges when he chooses the more calm tempos, conducive to opening slightly unframed horizons, as on Lament for Lamont, superb tribute to the saxophonist who died just a year ago Duncan Lamont (one of the signatures of KPM), preceded by a brief Meditation on a Pedal Steel. And the following theme, Pointe Venus, is not without evoking the great Jobim, while Mother’s Love will bring back happy memories to aficionados of soundtrack genre porn soft, and that Undulation and Anticipation, in crossfade mode, could have appeared in the credits of the Savage Planet. All in all, enough to hover until the end of the summer.

Jacques Denis

Greg Foat Peaceful Symphony (Strut).

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Marius Goldhorns Roman „Park“

“Arnold went into the settings.” Not so long ago this sentence at the beginning of a novel would have been incomprehensible without further context. Today it provides the certainty that it is a text from the immediate present. With the naturalness with which Marius Goldhorn sets this prelude in his debut novel “Park”, he also indicates that Arnold, the protagonist, has become the digital into a state of being. He goes to the settings like other fictional characters before him set out into the world, because this is now, if not in the settings themselves, then at least in the immediate offer of the programs and portals.

The critical spirit in this fiction, which tried to claim an indispensable distance between the virtual and life, has long since vanished. The result is the young Arnold, who is on a trip from Berlin via Paris to Athens to see his girlfriend Odile again. He articulates himself in mostly brief main clauses and makes laconic statements that repeatedly highlight the precarious state of the planet and the selective exposure of its interior. Arnold is by no means simple, but his communication is reduced to the bare essentials. Often his conversations end with “I don’t know”. Like those of the narrator, his statements are entirely without irony. Irony seems to him to be a pointless, outdated gesture.

Pictures of the devaluation

One could read the novel as a love story, if only something more was left of the lived relationship than a sober list of statements such as “For six months they ate bread in the morning”, “They undressed, they got dressed”, ” They watched bad documentaries about robots ”or“ They undressed each other ”. Usually the two lovers scroll past each other. Arnold cannot be a main character, since he makes it clear to himself that he is at most “one of 7.79 billion supporting actors”.

Marius Goldhorn: „Park“.


Marius Goldhorn: „Park“.
:


Image: Suhrkamp Verlag

Goldhorn does not even let the coming-of-age issue arise. The potential of individuality that would be lost in it appears to his figures too worn out. For a long time it looks as if Odile and Arnold lose each other out of perplexity about what to do with a life together, entered into the digital search fields. In these spheres everything becomes the same to them, nothing differs in its value from anything else, so that the mutual attraction of this equality of appearances, moods and views also lapses. But when Arnold is already separated from Odile and is waiting in Athens for his return flight, his chance encounter with a work of art gives the matter a new twist.

Amazing wording

Here one pauses, because this unexpected intervention by art is worked as convincingly as the pictures of the devaluation of the inner and outer world before. Rarely has an author in recent times with such limited resources such a tightly woven network of references between the set pieces of the globalized present, the references to materials and motifs from the history of the novel and the visual arts, as well as a rudimentary yet touching choreography of the characters created, as Goldhorn managed to do in his debut. The dystopian image inventory of consciousness has become a commonplace for Arnold; his drifting through the European capitals is surrounded by a last breath of the stale ennuis of decadence. The riots on the streets of Athens in which he got caught leave him cold even when he is briefly taken into custody.

This main secondary figure is still fascinating because, despite all its simplicity, it is radical and must have a polarizing effect on readers. We encounter it in a language that seems to have lost any will to style and yet again and again produces astonishing formulations of great poetic power. Even if Arnold no longer tolerates irony, his acting as a digitized Simplicissimus creates a very idiosyncratic humor in many places. Allowing these tensions to be experienced as a hallmark of the present is an art that Marius Goldhorn masters brilliantly in his novel.

Marius Goldhorn: „Park“. Novel. Suhrkamp Verlag, Berlin 2020. 179 pp., Br., € 14.

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Raphael in Rome: there are never so many masterpieces again

“Ecco!” Says the art historian Waldrudis Hoffmann, who leads visitors through the more well-known and hidden sensations of Rome: “Hera, the wife of Zeus, spreads her arms in a gesture that can still be seen everywhere in Italy today: there can not do anything!”. And with the lackey of a precise observer of life she adds: “But Venus feels betrayed and manipulated. And no woman likes that. “

Hoffmann is not talking about a new Netflix series. But about one of the most charming sensations that humanity has created: the ceiling frescoes in the loggia of Villa Farnesina. Raphael painted it for the banker Agostino Chigi in 1518. At that time he was the superstar of Italian art, only Michelangelo kept him at bay. Rome is now celebrating Raphael in a giant exhibition.

Interior shot of Villa Farnesina in the Italian capital Rome (undated), which is decorated, among other things, with Raphael's frescoes.  It was built as a country villa for Agostino Chigi, the powerful banker under Julius II.  |  Use worldwide

Interior shot of Villa Farnesina

Quelle: picture-alliance / dpa

In his new building, he had himself painted as a hybrid of Amor and the messenger god Mercury and Francesca Ordeaschi, his lover and later second wife, as a psyche. Raphael made it into a ceiling painting of the most subtle psychology – and at the same time a brazen piece of pornography. The legend of the gods is decorated with wreaths of fruit and vegetables, every pumpkin is like a plump penis, every melon is like a juicy vulva.

It is currently perhaps the most accessible masterpiece by the artist, the 500th anniversary of his death this year. In the Vatican Museums, where he painted his epoch-making “School of Athens” in the private apartments of Pope Julius II, a pram rams again. “The burial of Christ” in the Villa Borghese is thoroughly inspected for the anniversary and can therefore be seen mounted through a glass frame and on a kind of high-tech easel.

And the big exhibition “Raffaello 1520 – 1483” in the Scuderia, formerly the stables of the former Pope’s palace? Almost impossible to get tickets because Corona only allows a fraction of the usual number of visitors. You have to try it anyway. Because you won’t see so many masterpieces in one place.

“There is no late work at Raphael,” says museum director Matteo Lafranconi about the artist, who died at the age of 37

Those: © Photographic cabinet of the Uffizi Galleries

Where do you start? The curator and museum director Matteo Lafranconi decided: in the end. “Raffaello 1520 – 1483” is the name of his show, referring to the drama of premature death. And the first picture is not from the artist himself, but shows his funeral service before he was buried in the Pantheon. “His whole life and work was aimed at uniting with the art of antiquity,” says Lafranconi.

Opposite today is the founder of the state and Italian club Vittorio Emmanuele, with huge metal eagles and an oversized gesture. In contrast, Raphael’s grave, which he himself designed, appears to be a model of modesty. Just a Madonna sculpture between Corinthian columns – and, however, the much-quoted inscription from one of his poet friends: “This is Raphael, of whom nature was afraid during his life that he would outstrip it. And when he died, she was afraid to die with him. “

The artist’s short, explosive career was by no means just a triumphal procession. It was marked by fairytale success, but also by gnawing doubts as to whether the older rival Michelangelo would ultimately contest his glory. “We were not sure whether the response would be as overwhelming as at our Caravaggio exhibition ten years ago and we were surprised ourselves,” says the museum director and his superior, Quirinale President Mario di Simoni, referring to the enormous international response.

Raffaello Madonna and Child (Madonna del Granduca) 1506-1507 oil on poplar panel / oil on poplar panel Florence, Uffizi Galleries © Photographic Cabinet of the Uffizi Galleries - Courtesy of the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism Ausstellung Raphael 1520-1483 von 2.6.  bis 30.8.  in the Scuderie del Quirinale, Rome

Madonna and Child (1506/07)

Quelle: Photographic Cabinet of the Uffizi Galleries – Courtesy of the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities and Turis

The biographers are in agreement – from the gossipy Renaissance chronicler Vasari to the Italian television art critic Luca Nannipiere: Raphael was not a tortured artistic nature, his life did not offer the drama of a Caravaggio. He was a workaholic, a diplomat, an all-rounder. In addition to painting, he created carpets, architecture and poetry. The sketches for his tapestries show an artist to whom the depiction of nature flown by itself. And he was a networker with a creative court, who knew how to outdo his rivals and kept his clients happy.

However, he did so with virtuosity and psychological sophistication. His portrait of Leo X., Cardinal Giulio di Medici and Luigi de ‘Rossi shows three power men in splendid robes, but what remains are the lurking looks.

Another example, and one of the most moving pictures in this spectacular exhibition: the double portrait from 1518. It shows him himself. His look through half-lowered lids could express exhaustion, sensuality and, strangely, female coquetry. And his hand rests on the shoulder of a virile young man, whose hand seems to reach directly into the life of the beholder. A trick to blow up the picture frame, but also an expression of his world view.

Portrait of Leo X, Cardinal Giulio di Medici and Luigi de ‘Rossi

Those: © Photographic cabinet of the Uffizi Galleries

Although he is famous for his Madonnas – and the lively, almost funny sons of God in their arms – his painting was no longer just an ode to God, but always a dialogue between people. The greatest Greek philosophers are immortalized in the mural “School of Athens”, but it is not Aristotle or Pythagoras that makes you wonder, but the young woman in the crowd about the rather demolished Socrates.

The only person in this life-like cultural summit who can look the viewer directly in the eye (except, of course, the painter himself on the right edge of the picture). And it does so with a directness that is still stirring today. She doesn’t flirt, she checks you out. The name of this rose: still unsettled.

Raphael Study of a hand and face Study of hand and face 1497-1499 black stone / black chalck Oxford, Ashmolean Museum © Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford Ausstellung Raphael 1520-1483 von 2.6.  bis 30.8.  in the Scuderie del Quirinale, Rome

Raphael: study of a hand and a face (1497 – 1499)

Quelle: Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford

“Raffaello 1520 – 1483” is an epochal show, the most important museums in the world have sent pictures to Rome. Nobody knows how the insurance and transport costs should pay off in view of the dramatically reduced number of visitors. “Under the current conditions, such an exhibition would be unthinkable,” says Lafranconi, who worked on it for four years. The work was worth it.

It is not just the masterpieces that make an exhibition worth seeing, but the details. The charcoal drawing of Moses in front of the burning bush of thorns, which shows the prophet as a muscular shepherd: on 23 sheets glued together, lightly stained and aged with a speckled surface, but with a unique power. Man is terrified of the divine, and yet he is almost a god himself. And then the peculiar perfection of the “lady with unicorn” – the mythical animal painted small and cute like a lap dog. A reminder that there is always a child in a child prodigy.

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Greece-holidays in 2020: Are traveling, in spite of Corona possible? Current Location

Gthe smell of the country allows tourists from 29 countries from 15. June entry by direct flight without a mandatory Quarantine. Visitors from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Albania, Australia, Bulgaria, China, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Israel, Japan, Croatia, Latvia, Lebanon, Lithuania, new Zealand, North of Macedonia, Norway, Malta, Montenegro, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Cyprus are expected to land in Athens and Thessaloniki, informed the Greek Ministry of tourism.

The UK in addition to Germany, the most important country, from the tourists to Greece come from is not on the list of initial States for which there is no Quarantine requirement.

Visitors might be tested by sampling on the Coronavirus, the Ministry said. The list will to 1. July enlarged to any additional countries. Greece does not want to achieve that the revenue from tourism this summer and fall, in spite of Sars-CoV-2 to strong. Tourism and related sectors make up about a fifth of the economy of the country.

Greece is preparing in full swing for the upcoming summer holiday season. After almost two months break, the archaeological sites have been opened now and again. Initially, this applies only for sites in the Outdoor, such as, for example, the Acropolis of Athens.

Approximately 200 archaeological open-air places to visit in Greece now, reports euronews Athens. For visitors and guests guide, it is important to maintain a distance of at least 1.5 meters. For Guides and masks of the plastic be plates for the face of duty, and for guests to Wear a mouth-nose-covering is only a recommendation. The museums to the Ministry according to the culture of the 15. June will be opened.

Ferries to Islands in Greece

In the meantime, all the beaches were opened. In addition, travel to all parts of the country, as well as to the island of Crete are permitted.

Also, the regular ferry traffic to the Islands is now resumed. The number of passengers was even limited, so you can keep up because of the Coronavirus pandemic, the prescribed safety distance.

Also Restaurants and Bars were allowed to open again. Minimum clearances considered here. A restaurant owner on the Monastiraki square in Athens said, usually sitting in his Local 100 guests, now just 30 are allowed to be. “So what’s never happened before,” said Spiros Bairaktaris. “But I think people from all over Europe will come here, because we had God thanks to a low death rate.”

Greece has not recorded according to the Johns Hopkins University officially just under 2900 infections and 171 of the Dead with the Virus (as of 25. May) and is to come, especially in comparison to Italy, Turkey and Spain very lightly by the pandemic. On the majority of popular with vacationers, the Islands, not a single case was registered. The government in Athens has decided to the holiday season already on 15. June start to leave.

To be able to any new cases of Covid-19 to treat the capacities of the state hospitals have been expanded. On the Islands of Lesvos, Samos, Rhodes, Zakynthos and Corfu hospital beds for intensive treatment. On Crete, there were already.

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Travellers from abroad need to currently quarantine in 14 days. From 1. July is supposed to start according to the words of the Greek heads of government, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, the tourism in Greece in full, but under hygienic conditions new.

The first Hotels are already at 15. June open the door. From this point flights without subsequent quarantine will be possible, however, initially only to Athens and Thessaloniki.

From 1. July will be international flights to the Greek Islands and in other holiday regions of Greece, it said. In public spaces and means of transport, the Wearing of masks is currently mandatory.

Security measures due to Corona Hotels

Currently are going to discuss the planned security measures in the Hotels, such as the Portal reisevor9.de reported, citing Handelsblatt. The Greek government had worked out with the state health authority, a catalog with more than 150 proposals. Among other things, it is planned that the Hotels would have to ill set up stations, and a hygiene officer to deal with.

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Woman in bikini on beach, Sithonia, Greece | use in the world

Holiday in the Corona-crisis

Also a cooperation of Hotels with specially trained Doctors, the Corona could make of the Tests, am one of the proposals, as well as the idea of risk groups such as older people, special zones, or their own bathing times at swimming Pool to assign.

Tourism is extremely important for Greece, which had left his great economic crisis until 2018 behind. 33 million tourists arrived in the year.

Summer vacation, in spite of Corona? What is currently in other popular countries of destination:
Holiday in Spain in 2020
Holiday in Italy to 2020
Holiday in France in 2020
Holiday in Turkey to 2020
Holiday in Austria 2020
Holiday in Switzerland 2020
Holiday in Sweden to 2020
Holiday in Denmark in 2020
Holidays in the Netherlands in 2020
Vacation in Poland in 2020
Holiday in Egypt in 2020
So ships could re-take: cruises, while Corona

You should be mindful of when booking your holiday now

With the lifting of the travel warnings the summer holidays could be but still possible. In the WORLD-Interview with Ralf Hieke explains the Association of German Travel, why you should place your booking now more likely to be on package tours.

Source: the WORLD/Carsten Hädler

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