Traveling to Jordan as a remedy for a fast-paced life

Dean Fernando Pessoa who the trips are the travelers. Although this idea seems to be behind the much offered “personalized experiences”, we assume that the Portuguese poet did not intend to inspire experts in tourism marketing.

Customizing a trip, after all, is not going to add euros to the budget as we choose options, but to arrive at the destination with our eyes open to form our unique and unexpected vision. Because one arrives in Jordan wanting Petra and leaves with a long list of unsuspected “favourites”. In this travel we have discovered a friendly country that treasures everything that we miss in our noisy routine: from the absorbing serenity of white Amnn to suspended time in the Wadi Rum desert. Meanwhile, impressive Roman ruins, biblical places steeped in legend, the singular Dead Sea and the route of Egeria, the Galician noblewoman who crossed the country on foot there in the fourth century. This young country, with just over 100 years of existence, is one of the most stable in an area of ​​the world that is not immune to conflict. The monarchy of Abdal II governs with moderation a kingdom that boasts of its religious tolerance and shows the world an image of ethnic coexistence. The geography now occupied by this country, whose borders were drawn by a young Churchill in 1019, It was the cradle of the Nabataeans, a people with a commercial vocation and responsible for the construction of Petra, one of the 9 wonders of the world today.

If fast-paced life asks you to take a break, it’s time to reserve a week to visit a country that invites contemplation, but also conversation with welcoming locals, accompanied by tea.

Jerash, the Pompeya Jordana

You land in Amman, the capital of the 7 hills that is not only a starting point, but also a destination in itself and that we reserve for the last day. Only 50 km from Amnn is Jerash, formerly called Gerasa. There one of the strongest sensations of the trip awaits us: it is the second most visited place in Jordan and we immediately understand. It is one of the best preserved Roman cities in the Near East, which formed part of the Decpolis at the time of Pompey. The impressive architectural complex unfolds over more than a kilometer with remains of what was a classical Roman city built on Greek and Nabataean remains: a triumphal arch in honor of Hadrian leads to the route where we find the remains of a hippodrome, hundreds of fallen and standing columns, the Roman cardo perfectly visible from the promontory, the oden, the amphitheatre, the temple of Artemis (patron saint of the city) and a complex of thermal baths of the largest in the world… Everything was destroyed in the earthquake of 749 and it was not until about 70 years ago that excavations and restoration began on the numerous archaeological finds that are still coming to light.

Between Jerash and the capital, in a valley suddenly green and furrowed with springs, in a country that ranks 5th in the world with the most lack of water, lies Iraq Al Mir, a social project where you can enjoy a traditional Jordanian meal. The place is run by a women-run cooperative that was founded by the reina noor and that proposes to recover traditional crafts as a vehicle to emancipate the female population and recover manual trades. In the complex there is a ceramic workshop, an artisan paper, soap and fabric workshop. Traditional Jordanian food such as the traditional Maqluba, or Arabic paella, which is usually eaten on Fridays (the day of the Arab rest). It is a stew with lamb, vegetables and rice presented in a huge casserole that is turned into a bowl. Traditionally it is eaten with the right hand and is accompanied with pita bread.

As-Salt: the simple life of Jordanians

A visit to Al Salt, 28 km from Amnn, transports us back to reality and to the da day in a typical Jordanian town. This picturesque mountain village with yellow limestone houses is a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the motto “place of tolerance and urban hospitality.”

A walk down its main street, Haman Street Market, is enough to see that they don’t know rush here. On the terraces the men play barbecuea typical board game with small river rocks serving as tokens. In the nearby souk, groups of friends have lemon tea and sishas at the Iskandarini café. while they lend themselves to taking photos of tourists expertly handling their smartphones. After having a coffee in its cozy interior painted in ail, it is worth going to the Abu Jaber historical museum; an old and stately mansion that reflects the history of the small town and preserves some frescoes on the wall, excellent period tiles and traditional costumes. Thus Salt has been known for its wool, its threads and the red dyes that come from the sumac tree. But above all, the city was known for its admired women’s dresses called “khalaga”, a design three meters long. In the nearby Jordanian fashion store, Beit Khairat, you can buy the typical costumes and rent them to take a photo that decorates the room. (something very common among local women) You can also take the opportunity to buy a Jordanian keffiyeh embroidered in red tones on good quality cotton.

After some shopping it is time to go to the Orthodox Church of Saint George. The saint is revered by Christians and Muslims alike, who call him Al Khader and both communities of believers pray to him in this church in an example of coexistence and respect. Regardless of the religion one professes, this small temple contains the ideal atmosphere to enjoy a moment of rest and stillness before leaving for Fatima’s house.

Queens Rania and Máxima of the Netherlands have eaten here

Fatima al Zobi is a smiling woman who has opened her house to the public in Al Salt. Although there are very nice restaurants in the city, such as the aforementioned Café Iskandarini or Mountain Breeze, with excellent views, it is worth planning a visit to the house of Fatima to learn about the life of a Jordanian family behind closed doors. His home is a traditional two-story house with a roof terrace that can be reserved for eating, although it also has rooms for sleeping. Illustrious personalities such as Rania from Jordan or Princess Máxima from Holland have landed here. Fatima receives us in her room lined with soft seats and walls full of photos of her visitors. After a lively tea, the food is served on the roof by the women of the house: delicious mezze (Arab appetizers) based on olives, humus and mutabbal and the star dish: Al-Mansaf.

It is a typical Jordanian dish of rice, lamb and jameed (dried yogurt), but it is also a symbol of identity and social cohesion. It has recently been declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

This meal is quite a social event that is enjoyed from the moment it begins to be prepared in the kitchen, while the cooks tell anecdotes, sing and laugh. This dish, which is traditionally eaten by hand, is passed down from generation to generation. in the family context, but also in culinary institutes and universities.

Bethany, Mount Nebo and the egeria route

Going down to the south west, before reaching the Dead Sea, we do not find the holy places, which deserve a brief stop. Bethany is the place where it is believed that Jesus of Nazareth was baptized by John the Baptist, according to medieval Byzantine texts. Just between the San Juan stream and the Jordan River, a small cobbled pool appears as the place where baptism took place.

Today the Jordan River is not as mighty as it used to be: only a narrow strip of water of about ten meters separates the Jordanian shore from the Israeli shore. The orthodox church of San Juan, offers some shelter and freshness before continuing towards Mount Nebo about 40 minutes by car. The mythical place where Moses died before entering the promised land has magnificent views from the vantage point where, on a clear day, you can see places as far away as Bethlehem, the Mount of Olives and the Dead Sea. There several elements can capture the attention of the traveler, but save yourself for the precious mosaic that is preserved in the small temple. The Diaconicn-Baptistery mosaic is one of the best preserved and it is worth contemplating carefully the pastoral scenes and the richness of the colors of its tesserae. In Jordan, a number of mosaics from the Byzantine period (6th century) are preserved, such as the wonderful map of Madaba, a mosaic representing the oldest map of the Holy Land, found in the Church of Saint George, in Madaba.

Once we have seen the horizon from the top of the mountain, we head to one of the newest and most interesting enclaves of the trip: the Egeria route. We reconnect with the feminine spirit that crosses this destination through this woman of Hispanic origin (possibly Galician) who appears as the first female traveler in documented history. Probably of noble origin, there are doubts as to whether she belonged to a religious order, but from the letters and descriptions of her, she must have been an educated, cultured, and respected woman. Egeria traveled to Constantinople through the Roman routes and from there to Jerusalem, where she stayed for three years during which time she traveled on foot to the holy places, including Mount Nebo, in present-day Jordan. From here starts the path that the Jordanian Tourist Office offers as a new itinerary which will be extended to Jerusalem and which has the collaboration of the Instituto Cervantes and the Spanish Embassy. The current route is a journey through stony terrain, littered with remains of Byzantine ceramics, which is not very difficult. It is recommended to bring your own hiking equipment and a good guide. No one knows the route and history of this singular woman better than Oscar Kosebye, official guide and expert in adventure travel around the country.

Jordan’s Treasures: Petra and Wadi Rum Desert

There is no trip to Jordan that does not have the archaeological remains of Petra as its main attraction and, although it is not for less, Jordan reserves surprising corners for the traveler who flees from the crowds. Therefore, when visiting Petra and having a somewhat more solitary experience, doing it “in reverse” is a good idea. We start from Little Petra, a gorge 14 kilometers to the north with small remains of Nabataean constructions excavated in the stone that suggest a possible neighborhood “on the outskirts of the city of Petra. From there, you can take a pick-up that will save a few kilometers On the way before going up a hill where the route begins, where we will discover the first great construction excavated in the typical Petra sandstone: Ad Deir Monastery. Chiseled out of the imposing rock, it competes in monumentality and stunning effect with the arch-photographed Treasure.

The route continues down the gorge, leaving excavated tombs on both sides, rocks of thousands of colors derived from pink, crowded Bedouin markets, a stone theater… until reaching the most representative mausoleum of the archaeological complex of Petra: the Treasury or al-Khazneh, as it was known to the Bedouin, who believed that a fleeing Egyptian pharaoh had hidden treasure in the urn on top. Arriving in the opposite direction, we did not discover this marvel from the Siq (the gorge) so you have to repeat the entrance to have that spectacular vision that all tourists record on their mobiles. Despite the presence of mass tourism, Petra has the ability to dominate noise with accumulated centuries of silence and abandonment. After the departure of the Nabataeans, this route remained shrouded in silence and mystery until the Swiss Johann Ludwig Burckhardt discovered the ruins and the gorge in 1812.

In the desert of Wadi Rum the immensity awaits us, silence and a gratifying recollection after the mass bath in Petra. This landscape, characteristic for its rock formations and its reddish colors, has been the scene of numerous films and although itJordanians are tired of the eternal reference to Lawrence of Arabia, it is impossible not to think of Peter O’Toole riding a camel across this plain in the shadows of the winding rocks. This desert imposes a different rhythm on the trip; a necessary stop to assimilate what has been seen so far and a dividing line that already brings forward the end of the journey. Accommodations within the reserve are simple Bedouin tents or more luxurious glamping… But in either of the two options, there is little to do after dinner except go out to the plain to wrap yourself in silence and observe an endless starry sky. There are guided stargazing options as well as camel rides and 4×4 routes. Jordan reveals his serene personality in the desert, which in Amn is camouflaged.

back to amnn

Amn is a good example of modern city of the Near East; Ruins, stairways, balconies, relics, a citadel and an ancient theater contrast with an immense urban and modern space. Proof of this is the commercial Al-Abdali neighborhood with its spectacular Abdali Mall shopping center.

But for a more authentic experience we head to the lower part of the city, called Jabal Amman, a Rainbow Street, one of the busiest streets and with a nice mix of modernity and tradition. This chic neighborhood is home to numerous restaurants, art galleries, and fashion boutiques. A must visit is the Bani Hamida House, headquarters of a cultural association that promotes Bedouin crafts where you can buy curtains, fabrics, kilims and cushions made by the inhabitants of Makawir and of exceptional quality. Visiting the Jordanian capital also means discovering historical places such as the King Abdulla Mosque, or the essential Roman Theater built in the 2nd century under the command of Marcus Aurelius. Next to the theater the must-see in Amnn is the citadel of Jabal al-Qala, emblem of the city and bears witness to its rich The visit to the ruins is quite quick, since few buildings remain. Only the Umayyad palace and the Temple of Hercules (built by Marcus Aurelius) deserve a stop, preferably at sunset, when the sun hides behind the white buildings spread over 7 hills and you can enjoy a magical light while the call to prayer sounds.

What to do in Amman?

Up and down the million stairs that cross the city, where we will find hidden art galleries and cafes with ideal terraces to see the roofs of the city. Be sure to visit the Amman Panorama Art Gallery, on the intricate staircase next to the theater. There you can spend time admiring the paintings of Arab artists.

visitor el Darat al Funun, a hillside art center with exhibitions by artists from the contemporary Arab scene. The colonial-style building has a quiet garden next to some Byzantine columns. With its fountain among the trees and views of the city, this place is a capsule of peace where you can have a coffee while watching the swifts fly.

Connect with the local youth community: Through Local Eyes is a young underground tour company started by millennial Anas Amarneh and his sister. In their tour of old Amnn, they highlight the urban artists and hip hop culture of the city through a tour of graffiti. It continues through an old neighborhood full of cafes and galleries where both local and foreign artists meet. Amman has given shelter and refuge to inhabitants of other cities such as Damascus or Beirut and exercises the spirit of welcome and hospitality as part of her way of life and her convictions.

Discover Jordanian gastronomy: The centrally located AlQuds Restaurant (Al Hussein St 8) is worth a visit, known for its sweet specialties but with a popular dining room where locals come to eat from Mansaf to exquisite falafel sandwiches.

Cooking with Chef Maria Haddad Hanania: The best way to get to know a culture and its people is to delve into its cuisine, its recipes, its ingredients… So book yourself a dinner at the Beit Sitti cooking school, (grandmother’s house, in Arabic). We enter again into the exuberant Jordanian gastronomy from the hands of another woman, this time with the explosive chef Maria Haddad Hanania. Together with her team of cooks, offers a traditional cooking and culture class where you will cut vegetables, taste spices and learn cooking techniques while you prepare four traditional Arab dishes that you can later taste in one of its domestically decorated rooms. Maria doesn’t stop talking, explaining each spice fits into each dish and moves quickly multitasking: baking pita bread, controlling the temperature of the boiled vegetables, and mashing sesame for the Tahini. Her mission is to make Jordanian culture known through its typical dishes (meze) such as the delicious mutabbal, to more elaborate dishes. You can also buy a variety of species of her own brand, like the essential sumac, which occupies a privileged place in the library of Jordanian flavors.

When and how to travel to Jordan.

The best seasons are spring and autumn, with mild temperatures. Enter the official website of tourism of Jordan where you will find all the necessary information to design and customize your trip to Jordan