Fendi, a cocooning collection to face new times

As the models speed through a nightclub lit by multicolored neon lights, a haunting, distant voice speaks to us of light, elegance, color and darkness. “What is normal today ? ”(what’s normal today), whispers Silvia Fendi Venturini on the powerful techno soundtrack created by Alessio Natalizia (aka Not Waving) for the Fendi men’s show for fall / winter 2021- 22, broadcast digitally on Saturday, the second day of the Milan Virtual Men’s Fashion Week.

The coat is available as a dressing gown – Fendi

Based on the current uncertain context and the Covid-19 pandemic, which has changed our habits so much in recent months, the artistic director of the Roman luxury house owned by LVMH wanted to revisit the men’s wardrobe to make it evolve into a adjusting to this new world, which seems both so strange and normal.

To redraw this “new normal“, Silvia Fendi Venturini is one of the classics of menswear by offering timeless pieces conceived from a new perspective, which takes into account the evolution of lifestyles and new human requirements. Versatility, comfort, functionality and sobriety characterize this collection, which oscillates between innovation and normality, while also being crossed by a fresh breath of energy and fantasy.

Everything is played out in precious and cozy materials, with zip-up wool loop tops, reversible down-lined coats, wraparound pajama-shirts, which transform into jackets, to be slipped over sweaters with large stripes. The perfecto is reinvented in a large format, cut from a thick woolen cloth. The collar of some cable pullovers is extended in two long panels to tie in a scarf around the neck.

The effect cocooning is accentuated by the ubiquitous quilting, which comes in coats edged with piping like the dressing gowns of yesteryear, but also in pants, wide Bermuda shorts, jackets and even inserts in pockets. Knitwear also has pride of place, especially in warm, dripping pants like pajamas, or in a baby jumpsuit.

Men never go out without their mittens and bundle up in XXL down jackets in bright colors (golden yellow, fuchsia, orange, royal blue) or in large down coats that look like a bathrobe. He definitely seems unable to do without his soft indoor clothes discovered during confinement … and teleworking.

Knitwear is essential in the collection – Fendi

He also loves practical details like the slits on the thighs of pants or under the shoulders of a jacket, depriving the suit of its usual stiffness. And what about this long cashmere scarf with a large pocket?

While the palette is rather neutral, oscillating between beige, light tones and black, with some flashes of color in monochrome looks, colorful and cheerful patterns electrify certain dark pieces, printed or embroidered on coats and knitwear, such as scribbles or childish drawings sketched in a hurry. They are the work of British comedian actor Noel Fielding.

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In Paris, finally, the January Fashion Weeks will take place digitally

Translated by

Paul Kaplan

Published on



Jan 9, 2021

The two fashion weeks planned for this month in Paris – men’s ready-to-wear and Haute Couture – will not feature any physical parade, as authorities have decided to maintain the ban on welcoming the public, including for events organized by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), the body which organizes the calendar of Parisian fashion weeks.

A passage from the latest Hermès men’s collection, presented as part of an event broadcast live – Photo: Filippo Fior / Hermès

The final decision was taken after talks between the Prefecture of Police and the Federation, which transmitted the information to the houses concerned on Friday.

Thursday evening, Prime Minister Jean Castex gave a press conference to announce the maintenance of health restrictions in France. Restaurants, cinemas and ski resorts, stopped since December to slow the Covid-19 pandemic, will therefore remain closed.

The Federation insists that its two events will take place, but mainly on the Internet. “Yes, what we are confirming is that there can be no public gathering. But our two Fashion Weeks will take place, and we remain very optimistic, both for the menswear season and for haute couture. “, insists the executive president of the Federation, Pascal Morand.

According to him, many houses are still thinking about the exact format of their presentations – especially as they can still organize “real” shows broadcast live, with models, provided their events take place in the house. closed.

“Brands are also authorized to organize meetings and presentations, while respecting the limitation of the number of people present at the same time in a given space”, indicates Pascal Morand. “In France, we are still under the blow of health measures, it should not be forgotten. It is a decision which comes from the government and the prefecture, and we will respect it, obviously”.

“This complicates things enormously, but we do not intend to give up. We have an ultra-modern platform, which allows you to discover all the collections online. We are ready,” says Pascal Morand.

The organizers of Paris Fashion Week had already published their impressive official calendars, which testify to the desire of many houses to present their new collections in the French capital. The men’s fashion season will take place from Tuesday January 19 to Sunday January 24, the Haute Couture season will take place from Monday January 25 to Thursday January 28.

In total, 71 brands appear on the men’s fashion calendar, including major houses such as Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme and Hermès, but also labels of influential designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Vetements, Paul Smith, Loewe and Thom Browne. The couture calendar includes 32 houses, including Chanel, Armani Privé and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Faced with this news, a spokesperson for Hermès recalls that many houses waited for the Prime Minister’s speech before choosing the format of their presentations. “There will be no parades in Paris this month. We have been informed. It’s official,” she sighs.

Last season, Véronique Nichanian, the creative director of men’s collections at Hermès, organized an event broadcast live on the Internet, a photo shoot staged at the headquarters of the brand which lifted the veil on a trendy and urban collection.

“This time, we are going to broadcast a video. We are still working on it. But for the moment we are keeping the exact format a secret,” says the spokesperson.

As for the Christian Dior house, it is preparing two presentations, one per official calendar: Dior Homme and Dior couture. “There cannot be a public parade. It is the choice that was made. It is unfortunate, but it is like that. And of course, we will respect this decision. It is a case of force. major, to face the pandemic. So get ready for a digital parade, “announces a spokesperson for Dior, when asked about the house’s projects.

In France, experts warn of an upsurge in infections following the Christmas holidays, marked by numerous trips throughout the territory.

Restaurants will remain closed at least until mid-February and ski resorts are not expected to open until winter break. The curfew will be extended until at least January 20, and new national restrictions cannot be ruled out, Jean Castex announced Thursday evening.

France is still recording more than 20,000 new daily cases of Covid-19 this week, a long way from the government’s target, which intends to fall below the threshold of 5,000 daily cases.

The FHCM explains that it works in close collaboration with the Prefecture, especially since the terrorist attacks of November 2015. Security is reinforced during any large parade, and plainclothes police officers attend many Parisian events.

“We are in regular contact with the Prefecture. We work hand in hand. The only thing we will never compromise is the safety of the public. There is no question of putting anyone at risk,” insists Pascal Morand.

After the two Fashion Weeks in January, the next Parisian season will take place from March 1 to 9 to present the women’s ready-to-wear collections.

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Columbia accuses collapse in bottom line

Translated by

Clementine Martin

Published on



3 nov. 2020

Columbia Sportswear, the Portland, Oregon-based outdoor apparel and footwear group, posted a 47% drop in third-quarter net income. He revealed this information on Thursday, announcing also to make changes in his management in order to promote the deployment of his new strategy focused on digital.

Columbia seeks to expand its internet presence – Instagram: @ columbia1938

For the third quarter ended September 30, 2020, Columbia group net income was $ 62.8 million (€ 53.97 million) or $ 0.94 (€ 0.81) per diluted share, in sharply down from $ 119.3 million (€ 102.52 million) or $ 1.75 (€ 1.50) per diluted share during the same period last year.

In addition to its eponymous label Columbia, the group owns the Mountain Hardwear, Sorel and Prana brands. Overall sales slumped 23% to $ 701.1 million (€ 602.50 million), from $ 906.8 million (€ 779.27 million) a year ago.

“Although these results are down sharply from last year, sales and profitability are significantly better than in the second quarter, a trend that we hope to see confirmed in the fourth quarter and into 2021,” said the Columbia president and CEO Tim Boyle in a statement.

Digital also brings a note of optimism: year on year, the channel’s quarterly sales have jumped 55%. To encourage the development of its online business, the company deployed a new e-commerce platform for North America in the previous quarter.

For the first nine months of the year, the Columbia group posted sales of $ 1.59 billion (1.37 billion euros), down 24% from $ 2.09 billion (1 , 80 billion euros) realized during the first nine months of the 2019 financial year.

Net income for the period lost 94% to $ 12.3 million (€ 10.57 million) or $ 0.18 (€ 0.15) per diluted share, from $ 216.5 million ( 186.05 million euros) or 3.15 dollars (2.71 euros) per diluted share last year.

For the fourth quarter of fiscal 2020, Columbia expects sales of between $ 850 and 880 million (730.46 and 750.26 million euros), which would represent a decrease of 8 to 11% compared to the fourth quarter 2019. Diluted earnings per share are expected to be in the range of $ 1.07 to $ 1.32 ($ 0.92 to $ 1.13).

Changes at the head of the company

Columbia is now focusing on developing its omnichannel business, primarily through strengthening its digital strategy. With this in mind, Executive Vice President and General Manager for the United States Franco Fogliato will take on the role of Executive Vice President dedicated to omnichannel strategy. In this newly created position, he will be responsible for overseeing direct sales for all of Columbia’s brands.

He will work alongside Senior Vice President of E-Commerce Patricia Higgins. In addition, Columbia will create a position of Chief Information Officer, which will replace that of Chief Information Officer when Michael Hirt steps down in early April 2021. The company is also still looking for a Marketing Director. .

For his part, the director of operations Thomas B. Cusick has announced that he will go part-time in February 2021, before retiring in the second half of the year. Supply Chain and Manufacturing Officer Lisa A. Kulok will then take on the role of Supply Chain Manager.

“The changes we are undertaking today at the head of the company should help accelerate the sustainable growth of our organization,” said Tim Boyle.

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VF Corp offers Supreme for $ 2.1 billion

For several months, Steve Rendle, Managing Director of VF Corp, has indicated that his group is ready to proceed with external growth. The owner of Vans, The North Face, Timberland and Dickies went from words to actions on November 9.

A The Norh Face X Supreme – Supreme collaboration

The American group has revealed that it has acquired the iconic brand of streetwear New York Supreme for $ 2.1 billion (1.76 billion euros), a little less than 15 times the EBITDA. The Carlyle Group and Goode Partners funds, which had acquired a stake in the brand created in 1994 with a store on Lafayette Street in New York in 2017, and now managed by James Jebbia, sold their shares in the company.

At the time, the press noted that the funds had acquired half of the capital for some 500 million dollars. The 2016 turnover was then estimated at 100 million dollars. VF specifies that in the fiscal year ended in January 2017, Supreme had made 200 million sales.

Today, the brand should end its financial year around $ 500 million in sales. With the development of its offer, its collaborations (notably with Vans, The North Face and Timberland) and its international expansion, Supreme is therefore THE undisputed heavyweight of the streetwear global. A market that VF estimates at around $ 50 billion in sales.

“VF is the ideal actor to honor the authentic legacy of this strong lifestyle brand while providing the opportunity to leverage our power and expertise to enable sustainable growth,” said Steve Rendle, CEO of VF in a press release.

“The acquisition of the Supreme brand is further validation of our vision and strategy to further evolve our brand portfolio in order to exploit all of the market opportunities that we see in the apparel and clothing industry. The Supreme brand will further accelerate the transformation of VF’s hyper-digital business model and be a significant driver of our commitment to long-term value creation for the group. “

The weight and steetwear perspectives of the VF Corp group – DR

The streetwear is in fact part of the roadmap announced by VF management to investors. According to a presentation made to them, the American group already achieves with Vans, The North Face, Timberland and Dickies nearly 3 billion in sales in this segment in its fiscal year 2020.

In this presentation, the group highlights the power of Supreme’s direct-to-consumer model. He points out that the gross margin, at 60%, is at the level of that of its Vans locomotive, and that its operating margin, at 20%, is approaching that of Vans, which peaks at 23%.

Supreme also has great growth opportunities, according to management, in particular by developing its store network but also other product categories. Clothing today accounts for nearly three quarters of its activity. Its potential is therefore strong on other media of expression: the brand also signs a collaboration with Opinel for a “drop“customized with the famous French knife. But above all, Supreme, known the world over, has international growth potential, the American market currently representing more than half of its activity.

Indeed, by 2024, the group announces to expect a turnover of more than one billion dollars for Supreme, with an annual growth of its sales between 8% and 10%. It remains for the parties to finalize this transaction, which should be effective by the end of the year.

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Columbia accuses collapse in bottom line

Translated by

Clementine Martin

Published on



3 nov. 2020

Columbia Sportswear, the Portland, Oregon-based outdoor clothing and footwear group, posted a 47% drop in third-quarter net income. He revealed this information Thursday, also announcing to make changes in his management in order to promote the deployment of his new strategy focused on digital.

Columbia seeks to expand its internet presence – Instagram: @ columbia1938

For the third quarter ended September 30, 2020, Columbia group net income was $ 62.8 million (€ 53.97 million) or $ 0.94 (€ 0.81) per diluted share, in sharply down from $ 119.3 million (€ 102.52 million) or $ 1.75 (€ 1.50) per diluted share during the same period last year.

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Partial unemployment: what should change on November 1

As of November 1, employees in partial unemployment (or “partial activity”) could receive only 60% of their gross remuneration, against 70% previously. On the employers’ side, the State would reimburse only 60% of the amounts, against 85% previously, according to draft decrees communicated to the social partners.

Shutterstock

Decrees made to the law of last June 17 (no.°2020-734) which in fact include certain measures that had previously been mentioned for implementation on October 1, but whose application had finally been postponed in the face of a more complex re-entry than expected depending on the areas of activity. These new settings are intended to be maintained until December 31, but they would not apply to protected areas, which remain 100% supported.

The period of authorized partial unemployment would also be modified, according to Capital. The draft decree would establish that, from 1 November, employers will be able to submit a request for partial unemployment for a period limited to three months. Right which could pave the way for an extension of three more months at the end of the first period. That is to say a maximum period of six months, against the 12 months that companies could previously claim.

As previously announced by FashionNetwork.com, the list of protected sectors may also be updated. In particular to accommodate retail businesses located in international tourist areas (ZTI), excluding food and household equipment in particular.

In addition, as recently evoked by the Minister of Labor Elisabeth Borne, companies in protected sectors should benefit from more advantageous support if they sign a “long-term partial unemployment” agreement, the form of which has several times evolved over the course of its development. A guarantee of job protection on which Prime Minister Jean Castex had already strongly insisted.

The Ministry of Finance – Shutterstock

These first echoes on the evolution of short-time working come a few days after the announcement by Bercy of a plan of 20 billion euros devoted to strengthening companies’ equity. All through participatory loans distributed by banks to which the State will provide its guarantee. The executive has also undertaken to clarify and simplify the large number of sectoral mechanisms deployed since the spring. To do this, relying on CCIs and professional federations, as well as on a dedicated support portal launched a few days ago.

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Dover Street Market, soon a new store and concept in Paris

The Covid-19 crisis is not slowing down Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband Adrian Joffe, who are preparing to open a second multi-brand Dover Street Market in Paris. Indiscretions had been circulating for some time on this subject. The house confirmed the project to us. The new address should see the light of day in 2021, inaugurating a new format for this innovative brand.

ERL is expected to be one of the first labels sold in this Parisian Dover Street Market – elirusselllinnetz.com

After a first Parisian address dedicated to beauty, inaugurated last year in the Marais, Dover Street Market is doing it again in the French capital, this time with a format entirely devoted to young emerging brands. The 30 square meter space is located at the address of the Trading Museum Comme des Garçons store on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, at number 54, in an annex located on the courtyard side, at the back on the left. It will take the name of Dover Street Trading Market.

While the Comme des Garçons multi-brand usually offers a sharp selection between young designers and more well-known luxury brands, this new concept will be aimed exclusively at the young proteges of the influential Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe, CEO of Dover Street Market. , by highlighting a few labels, which the duo produces and distributes.

Among the brands, which should be selected when the store opens, worth mentioning ERL, the label of Californian photographer, designer and artistic director Eli Russell Linnetz, who has collaborated with Kanye West and Lady Gaga among others, and Honey F- -King Dijon, project of the American DJ based in Berlin Honey Dijon.

Dover Street Market was founded in 2004 in Tokyo. The brand now has seven stores (London, New York, Tokyo, Singapore, Beijing, Los Angeles and Paris), which with this new point of sale will increase to eight.

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France Relance: a site to facilitate access to measurements

The French Ministry of the Economy, Finance and Recovery is launching a portal dedicated to the “France Relance” plan, with the aim of making the various systems put in place more readable and easily accessible for companies of all sizes, but also for individuals, communities and administrations.

France Relaunch

The portal allows companies to identify in a few clicks the measures targeting VSEs, SMEs, ETIs and other associations respectively. Added to this is a thematic filter to quickly identify measures dedicated to supporting activity, digital technology, transport, research, ecology, or even employment / training.

“Other functionalities will soon be deployed, such as a search engine or data visualization indicators which will make it possible to monitor the execution of the plan”, indicates Bercy. “For example, the number of beneficiaries of certain measures or the number of calls for projects in progress will be made public”.

Officially launched on September 3, the France Relance plan puts on the table nearly 100 billion euros to revitalize the French economy at a time when the Covid-19 crisis continues. The stated objective is to transform the economy by investing as a priority in the “most promising” areas, and to ensure that France can regain its pre-crisis economic level in two years.

The government has repeatedly called on local authorities, CCIs and professional federations to make the various measures of the plan known to business leaders. An approach that was carried out in particular with representatives of the textile / clothing industry at Bercy. On the other hand, the plan did not appeal to trade professionals, who consider themselves “the great forgotten” of France Relance, despite an activity also strongly impacted by the health crisis (reread our interview with the CEO of the Alliance of Commerce).

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Hermès: quality, quality and quality

A statement of purist fashion and a celebration of the taste for French spectacle at Hermès this Saturday, in one of the most successful fashion shows on the international calendar to date.

Hermès – Spring-Summer 2021 – Womenswear – Paris – © PixelFormula

The house unveiled its spring-summer 2021 collection at the heart of the Tennis Club de Paris, brilliantly revisited in mountain scenery, whose ridges peaked up to the ceiling of this giant brutalist concrete building. The molded white plaster structure was the work of runway producer Etienne Russo. It was enamelled with giant plinths showing photos and images by artist Claudia Wieser – ceramic icons, capricious gods, and photos from the collection itself.

As for clothes, we had very telling examples of ultra-luxurious fashion. The models may have paraded 15 meters from the public, you could practically smell the exceptional quality of supple lambskin or powdery cashmere.

Because if there is one luxury house that has survived the Covid crisis with flying colors, it is Hermès, which just last month opened stores in Madrid, Osaka and Dalian, in China, and invested in a new factory in Auvergne, providing jobs for 250 people.

“This season in Paris hangs a desire to defend a certain French idea of ​​the performing arts. Of course, the pandemic implies that we must and will have to do a lot more things in digital format. But there is a moment when expressing ideas live becomes vital. Bluetooth, cellphones and algorithms are enough, “said Creative Director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski with a pout.

Before the show, Nadège sent the editors a very chic scrapbooking album, made of 100% recycled “Freelife cento” paper and with a very pleasant smell, with inside her visual collaborations with artists she admires. Among which Camille Vivier, the great abstract painter from Central Europe Carsten Fock, or the photographer Sam Rock and even the star DJ Frédéric Sanchez, who proposed a series of dreamlike seascapes. The latter also provided a soundtrack worthy of a true anthem, by inserting the soundtrack of the classic Godard, contempt, with Mazzy Star’s “Fade into you”.

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s response to the pandemic was very high quality, expressed in super-crisp lines, restrained ornamentation, and no-frills style: ideal masculine blazers, minimalist sleeveless fisherman’s jackets, or low-rise skirts of leather so smooth it looked like steel. Refined dust coats, side-tie dresses or super double-faced cashmere jackets that made you want to stroke them. All mixed with a few elegant chainmail dresses, in leather, for fashion shoots. Where other designers have emerged from the pandemic with an obsession with protective clothing, masks and visors, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski sought the reassurance that familiar things provide: here, the desire for truly fashion. durable whose quality will not weaken for years.

Hermès – Spring-Summer 2021 – Women’s ready-to-wear – Paris

As with all Parisian parades, Hermès scrupulously enforced social distancing. It is now a matter of course, and this since the end of the holidays: any citizen or visitor to France wears a mask when going out or going to any public event.

During each parade this Parisian week, gel is made available free of charge, and the guests sit more than a meter apart. If you’re looking for the exact opposite of a Republican Party rally, get invited to a Paris Fashion Week show!

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Paris returns to parades despite the Covid

The show resumes in Paris: the big houses like Dior, Chanel or Vuitton return to the parades during Fashion week which starts Monday in full progression of the Covid, even if most of the brands have chosen to present their collection online.

AFP

After men’s fashion and haute couture entirely virtual this summer for the first time in history, this week of women’s ready-to-wear from September 28 to October 6 will be “phygital”, half-physical, half-digital, but equally atypical.

Saint Laurent decided during confinement to give up Fashion weeks announcing that the house will create at its own pace. Celine by Hedi Slimane, and Off-white, the brand of the American Virgil Abloh, star of millennials, are also absent subscribers this season. But ten new designers are entering the official calendar featuring 84 houses, more than usual in both cases.

Masked parades with very few foreign guests and “subject” to the evolution of health instructions, presentations by invitation, videos posted on social networks: the creators are adapting and trying to appropriate the new formats to talk about fashion in times of pandemic.

“This collection is the mirror of the last five months. I still work like that, it is the world around us that has changed radically,” young French designer Marine Serre told AFP.

“The strength of the garment”

After impressive parades with a post-apocalyptic aesthetic, she opted this time for a short film which will be broadcast on Tuesday, in which she wanted to highlight “the strength that clothing has today, how it is protects us, helps us face our daily lives and move forward “.

Spearhead with Belgian Dries Van Noten of a manifesto for more responsible fashion supported by hundreds of small houses which are committed to producing less and to reinventing the catwalks, she says she will “adapt accordingly of what’s going to happen “.

“I have nothing against redoing a show in the coming months. What is interesting in Fashion weeks is to create a synergy, a moment of sharing, being together”, she underlines. But having “25 (parades) per year does not make sense”.

The Georgian Demna Gvasalia, artistic director of Balenciaga confided in an interview with the specialized media WWD to have wondered “if the fashion has a direction in this apocalyptic world in which one lives since March”. Before rediscovering the taste for clothes.

“I discovered that even in times of the pandemic, people want new things, even more, to distract themselves from these horrors,” said the designer who will do a digital presentation on October 4 and a haute couture show in July.

“Eight minutes”

The Turkish Ece Ege at the head of her brand Dice Kayek is back at Paris Fashion week with a film, after having given up for four years because she could no longer support the pace that demanded up to six collections per year.

“Films or exhibitions allow you to express that there are other things in your world than dresses, something that you want to tell through clothing. A film is always there, unlike the parade where you put your life, all your energy, your fortune for six months and then it lasts eight minutes and no one has understood anything, “she summed up to AFP.

If the last digital Fashion week did not seduce the critics, nostalgic for the effervescence of the parades, this format has not yet said this last word, estimates Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera, fashion museum in Paris.

“There is the emotional side that is difficult to replace. But we can provoke other types of reactions through digital technology, it will be another experience,” she told AFP.

In summer, the houses offered “a quick fix” because they did not have time to conduct “a very thorough reflection”. “The reflection begins now and we will see more and more interesting things”, she assures.

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