As the models speed through a nightclub lit by multicolored neon lights, a haunting, distant voice speaks to us of light, elegance, color and darkness. “What is normal today ? ”(what’s normal today), whispers Silvia Fendi Venturini on the powerful techno soundtrack created by Alessio Natalizia (aka Not Waving) for the Fendi men’s show for fall / winter 2021- 22, broadcast digitally on Saturday, the second day of the Milan Virtual Men’s Fashion Week.
Based on the current uncertain context and the Covid-19 pandemic, which has changed our habits so much in recent months, the artistic director of the Roman luxury house owned by LVMH wanted to revisit the men’s wardrobe to make it evolve into a adjusting to this new world, which seems both so strange and normal.
To redraw this “new normal“, Silvia Fendi Venturini is one of the classics of menswear by offering timeless pieces conceived from a new perspective, which takes into account the evolution of lifestyles and new human requirements. Versatility, comfort, functionality and sobriety characterize this collection, which oscillates between innovation and normality, while also being crossed by a fresh breath of energy and fantasy.
Everything is played out in precious and cozy materials, with zip-up wool loop tops, reversible down-lined coats, wraparound pajama-shirts, which transform into jackets, to be slipped over sweaters with large stripes. The perfecto is reinvented in a large format, cut from a thick woolen cloth. The collar of some cable pullovers is extended in two long panels to tie in a scarf around the neck.
The effect cocooning is accentuated by the ubiquitous quilting, which comes in coats edged with piping like the dressing gowns of yesteryear, but also in pants, wide Bermuda shorts, jackets and even inserts in pockets. Knitwear also has pride of place, especially in warm, dripping pants like pajamas, or in a baby jumpsuit.
Men never go out without their mittens and bundle up in XXL down jackets in bright colors (golden yellow, fuchsia, orange, royal blue) or in large down coats that look like a bathrobe. He definitely seems unable to do without his soft indoor clothes discovered during confinement … and teleworking.
He also loves practical details like the slits on the thighs of pants or under the shoulders of a jacket, depriving the suit of its usual stiffness. And what about this long cashmere scarf with a large pocket?
While the palette is rather neutral, oscillating between beige, light tones and black, with some flashes of color in monochrome looks, colorful and cheerful patterns electrify certain dark pieces, printed or embroidered on coats and knitwear, such as scribbles or childish drawings sketched in a hurry. They are the work of British comedian actor Noel Fielding.
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