Where to get mulled wine in Munich – Munich

Where can we get a mulled wine now? “A passer-by asks his companion. The two of them stroll through the city center on Thursday afternoon. A woman walks towards them who hears that and immediately starts laughing. Mulled wine? In these times, without Christmas markets? Oh yes Perhaps there have never been so many bizarre places and opportunities to stand around with steaming mugs. A quick tour of the first Advent.

On Marienplatz, for example, the snack stand at Wildmosers Restaurant-Café has bratwurst rolls and now mulled wine. They did not benefit from the lack of competition from the Christmas market, says the operator, and sales are going “as always”. With the mulled wine in particular, he notices something completely different, the “To go” is really being followed this year. “People get a mulled wine and move on, it’s rare that they take a second round.” As a possible reason, he cites that masking is mandatory on Marienplatz and with mouth and nose protection it is just bad to drink.

A few meters further on, even the Dutch have specialized in this drink, which is not widely used in their homeland. In the shop “Cheese & More” there is a note in the shop window, behind which cheeses are layered up to the top: “Mulled wine”. Inside there are also two metal pots with hot wine among dozen types of cheese. And a mulled wine dip specially developed two weeks ago.

The Japanese star chef Tohru Nakamura only opened his restaurant “Salon Rouge” on Dienerstrasse in October. When the partial lockdown came in November, Nakamura turned everything upside down and turned the Salon Rouge into the “Umai Street Food Market”. There are not only Japanese burgers to take away, but also a Japanese form of mulled wine, the “mulled sake”, based on hot rice wine.

Normal wine, hot and cold, is now also available on Gärtnerplatz in Cotidiano. Much prior knowledge is not necessary either. Get the mulled wine pot and the finished drink, connect, heat up, pour out. The seller at the counter is quite satisfied with the sales. Two women stand a few meters away on Thursday, one with cold, the other with hot white wine. “It’s the same as always, only better,” says one of them, smiling from behind the cloud of steam that rises from the cup. On the one hand, people meet earlier that the Corona period has finally made day drinking socially acceptable. “In addition, this tightness is always annoying at the Christmas market.”

There’s not much going on in the city center – you can find a bit of Christmas magic in Westpark

Now you can stroll from station to station and buy a new mug anywhere. Almost everywhere you can have the drink poured into cups you brought with you or into returnable cups and take it with you. And when you go for a walk you freeze less. In addition, there is the fact that the restaurants are supported and paid less because there is no deposit on the paper cups. “It won’t be our last stop today,” says the second of the two friends at Gärtnerplatz. However, the new possibility of glow hikes has apparently yet to be established.

At the Stachus there is still little going on in the early evening, no ice magic far and wide. And on the Theresienwiese, where the winter Tollwood with its brightly lit tents is usually running, with concerts, bazaar halls, food stands and cultural events, only the tent of the corona test station is lit these days.

A bit of a Christmas market can be found in Westpark, where the “Gans am Wasser” café serves mulled wine. In front of the beer garden there are a few, corona-compliant in small groups at a distance, cyclists and joggers brightly lit with LED lights come by. “This is at least a small replacement,” says one customer who is here often. It’s just a shame, says another, that the café closes at 6 p.m. after all: “We’re going to have a mulled wine elsewhere now, this year we’re definitely going to run more than usual at the Christmas market.” Or not at all if you order from Katharina Rohrer.

Rohrer usually sells her hot berry wine at Marienplatz around this time, and with the “Beerenalm” she has been an integral part of the Christmas market for years. Now the Rohrers are delivering their mulled wine to their customers’ homes, for which they have bought an electric car. This year, the Christmas spirit is more likely to take place in private, says Rohrer, and “customers drink their mulled wine at home on the balcony”. Of course, the Beerenexpress was created out of necessity, but something nice can be gained from the changed situation: “Most of the people we deliver to so far are regular customers of the Christmas market. Some of them now get a face for me and we talk briefly at the door.”

Not only mulled wine can be brought home, there are also Christmas gifts and gingerbread. The city portal muenchen.de has created a digital Christmas market presence, which more than a hundred market merchants have already joined. Still, it’s worth going out, maybe right now. Because the next mulled wine stand could be a lot closer than you think.


Munich: Otto Waalkes congratulates baby elephant Otto – Munich

One day after the Munich zoo announced the birth of the new elephant named Otto, Otto Waalkes contacted the SZ. The comedian, actor, director, musician and artist drew an elephant as a comic figure for the first time almost 50 years ago and named him Ottifant. Since then, the often grinning gray animals with the big eyes have been the artist’s trademark and mascot. Waalkes immediately made a drawing to congratulate his namesake, his mother and the Hellabrunn Zoo.

SZ: Mr. Waalkes, you congratulate the newborn Munich elephant named Otto in Hellabrunn. What are the characteristics of an elephant that bears this name?

Otto Waalkes: The name Otto says it all, it stands for originality, animal loyalty and cunning. How do you think the Ottifanten react to their new conspecifics? With a visit to Hellabrunn? The Ottifanten are happy and asked me to congratulate them on their behalf. Actually, they wanted to serenade the newborn child right away – I was just able to stop them, because Ottifanten do not sing beautifully, but loudly.

What do you advise the nurses in Munich to do with Otto? Does he need special food? Special entertainment? And what is absolutely not allowed to do with Otto from Munich?

In principle, dealing with Otto’s food is very simple: Above all, you need the best of everything and as much of it as possible. They entertain themselves and others too. What one must definitely not forget is a reward – which brings us back to food. Today there are Ottifanten in all forms, they were already on postage stamps.

Is that the ultimate accolade for your species, a real Otto elephant weighing 100 kilograms in Munich?

You’re absolutely right, that’s the icing on the cake: A 100 kilo real elephant named Otto is very difficult to top – actually only by a six-ton ​​full-grown elephant. I can only wish Otto that he achieve that.


Munich: Baby elephant born in Hellabrunn Zoo – Munich

The approximately 100 kilo young animal, which will be called Otto, quickly stood on its feet. The zoo boss spoke of a “very relaxed, very harmonious birth without incident”.

On Wednesday night a baby elephant was born in Hellabrunn. Zoo boss Rasem Baban spoke of a “very relaxed, very harmonious birth without incident”. There is always one case with an elephant birth: At the end, the young animal falls to the ground from a height of about half a meter. In the vast majority of cases, animals are born foot first. The birth of the baby elephant, which will be called Otto, was calculated by the zoo for November; the gestation period for these animals lasts about 22 months.

All animals born in Hellabrunn this year are actually given a name that begins with the letter U. In this case, the zoo made an exception because the name Otto was the last wish of a testator in favor of the zoo that Hellabrunn complied with.

Hellabrunn Zoo, baby elephant Otto

It is crucial that the young animal, which weighs around 100 kilograms, quickly stands on its feet after birth. As the photos prove, it works pretty well.

(Photo: Hellabrunn Zoo)

In the past few days, when changes in the mother’s urine levels announced the birth, elephant keepers observed the animal day and night via video, but did not intervene during the birth. It is crucial that the young animal, which weighs around 100 kilograms, quickly stands on its feet after birth.

The birth box in the elephant house was lined with sand and straw so that the newborn does not slip. The young animal was then “very quickly” on its feet, says Baban. Mother and child are now left alone for a while, at most showered with water once.


Munich: Christmas tree on Marienplatz despite Corona – Munich

How good that in this exceptional Corona year you can at least rely on the Christmas tree on Marienplatz. The sight wasn’t always nice, but this time other qualities count anyway.

Advent 2020 may be the first Advent since the birth of Jesus that really deserves the name stade Zeit – albeit a little different from what the people of Munich would like. Stade Zeit, that means this year: no Christmas market, no strolling from stand to stand, no meeting friends for one or two much too sweet mulled wine, no smell of punch and bratwurst, no Christmas party. But with all the beautiful, familiar things that won’t work this year, there is at least one reliable constant: There will be a Christmas tree on Marienplatz in 2020 as well. It should be set up in the week before the first Advent.

Okay, if you take the reliable constant seriously, then the tree will not be a beauty so that the people of Munich have something to scold about. As always in the past few years, it may be a little crooked or a little bald. It will fit in well with this rather crooked and somehow bleak year. A quick look back: In 2019, the people of Munich had to be happy that they even got a tree; the originally chosen one from Freyung-Grafenau had crashed apart while loading, “saudumm glaffa”, commented the district administrator at the time. Five years ago it was a dry spruce from Ruhpolding that got ridicule from townspeople.

However, it is quite possible that the people of Munich will look at the Christmas tree on Marienplatz with less critical eyes this year. That they are just happy that he is standing there and that his lights radiate something like forgiveness. On the tree you will see that Christmas is approaching; this year when the weeks blur like the outlines of the Frauenkirche in the November mist. However, if you are looking for the perfect tree, you can order an artificial one on the Internet. For example the balsam fir, made with “True Needle Technology”, 1.80 meters for 719 euros. Real or fake – trees have an invaluable advantage in viral times: They can be hugged safely.


Munich-Haidhausen: The Vogelmaier coffee roastery – Munich

After getting up, a small cup of freshly brewed filter coffee – that is “pure enjoyment” for Stefan Vogelgesang. His wife Christiane Maier prefers to drink tea in the morning, but is no less passionate when it comes to coffee. She “always drinks it”, “not a lot, but always good”.

What good coffee is becomes clear when you visit the Vogelmaier coffee roastery on Einsteinstrasse. The idea of ​​having her own roasting plant matured in her mind for eleven years, says 54-year-old Maier, who, like her husband, originally worked in the IT industry. Until the opening in August 2016, they used the time to take part in trade fairs and workshops, to receive training in Berlin and Ecuador and to travel to countries of origin such as Ethiopia, El Salvador and Rwanda. There they got to know sustainable producers, from whom they still get their coffee beans today.

Christiane Maier and Stefan Vogelgesang roast the coffee beans themselves.

(Photo: Gino Dambrowski)

The beans are roasted in the back of the café – so it’s no wonder that the smell of fresh coffee fills your nose when you step inside. And the interior design leaves little doubt as to what the Vogelmaier focuses on: An old coffee grinder adorns the wall shelf, a coffee plant the table and various coffee accessories are on display at the entrance for sale. The Vogelmaier is furnished in what the owners describe as “modern alpine style”, which combines simple design with lots of wood.

What is there and what does it cost?

If you don’t want to order your beans online, but pick them up yourself and linger a bit at your “favorite place” – as Maier and Vogelgesang called the table right next to the roasting machine – a small but delicious breakfast menu is offered in addition to delicious coffee.

There are cakes, croissants, pretzels and sandwiches from the bakery around the corner. The “small breakfast” costs 4.50 euros and consists of a croissant with butter, jam and fresh orange juice. We also recommend the muesli with berries, milk and yoghurt for 3.80 euros. You can also order a piece of New York Cheesecake for 3.50 euros from Café Fräulein or a cinnamon roll from the cinnamon roll factory in Giesing for 2.50 euros, which is also available with an apple

The “small breakfast”: a croissant with butter, jam and fresh orange juice.

(Photo: Gino Dambrowski)

However, there is a large selection of coffee varieties. Eight different types of espressi from eight different countries are offered, whether as espresso for two euros, cappuccino for three or four euros, depending on the size, latte macchiato or flat white for 3.50 euros. Depending on the time of year, “seasonal delicacies” are added, since last winter there has been the popular “summiteer”, who brings together coffee beans from Colombia, Peru and Brazil. The filter coffee mixes “Haidhauser” and “Einstein 125” – named after Vogelmaier’s address – were also produced especially for the district.

With a smile, Vogelgesang reveals his most special creation: the “Schlabber-Café”, for which he prepares an espresso shot of filter coffee in the portafilter machine and then adds foamed plant milk. However, the 55-year-old only mixes it for his employees, who are all baristis trained themselves. So if you don’t know yet whether you prefer your coffee mild, chocolaty or fruity, you can get extensive advice. Under the direction of Maier and Vogelgesang, there are also training courses for customers once or twice a month. In addition, a “coffee pleasure seminar” is offered a few times a year.

Who goes there and how long do you stay?

It took almost a year and a half for the Vogelmaier to be accepted by the Munich residents, say the operators. In the meantime, however, they are pleased about a “very high proportion of regular customers”. Many only spend a few minutes in the café to exchange a few words with the remarkably nice staff and take away a pack of fresh beans. But some also come with laptops to work or for a small snack.

There is always something going on in the coffee roastery.

(Photo: Gino Dambrowski)

The coffee roastery on Einsteinstraße is not a typical place for an extensive breakfast on Saturday morning, especially because it is always busy. But if good coffee is more important than a sumptuous meal, this is the right place for you. And doesn’t that sound inviting? Sitting at your favorite spot with a cup of fresh “Haidhauser” coffee, watching the roasting and packing of the beans and forgetting the time for a few minutes or hours.

Vogelmaier coffee roastery, Einsteinstr. 125, 81675 Munich, opening times: Tuesday to Friday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., kaffeeroesterei-vogelmaie.jimdo.com


Munich: The first evening with a ban on serving alcohol – Munich

On the board on the facade of the traditional Zum Spöckmeier inn in the Rosental it says: “Happy Hour! Mon-Fri 2 pm-6pm, Halbe Helles 3.90”. The happy hour is already a few hours old, now the unhappy hour has broken all over town. It is just after 10 p.m. this Wednesday, October 14th, and nothing works.

A few minutes ago the alcohol ban came into force, which the city imposed within seven days due to the corona pandemic and the exceeding of the threshold of 50 infected people per 100,000 inhabitants. That doesn’t affect Spöckmeier at all today, it is already dark there shortly after ten, the lights are, the waiters have already sat up. The same picture can be seen over at the Viktualienmarkt in the Pschorr restaurant near the Schrannenhalle. Everything is tight there too.

At a quarter to ten something was still going on at Gärtnerplatz: The last curtain had fallen in the State Theater, the guests quickly streamed outside, the in-house bar Salon Pitzelberger is closed. Some local people are drawn to the Klenzestrasse to the Theaterklause, a small restaurant with typical Munich Boazn charm. Bartender Leo, who doesn’t want to be in the photo, says: “Everyone behaved in an exemplary manner and ordered in time for the last order.”

Fortunately, the performances in the theater are currently all finished before 10 p.m., some of them only lasted 90 minutes – time enough to order one last beer after work before 10 p.m. “You just have to be quick”, say the guests and laugh, “preferably get out before the final applause!” Leo expects the theater room to close earlier during the week in the future: “We normally close at twelve o’clock, but nobody stays that long for a nice water.” Now you are considering opening up earlier on Sundays, to compensate. Maybe at 3 p.m.

Not an option for the Holy Home. The bar on Reichenbachstrasse around the corner is already a classic when it comes to going out around Gärtnerplatz a little later. The crowd is rather young, between 8 and 30 on Sundays at 3 p.m., if you remember correctly, at this age you get up more or go to brunch, but not in a bar. On Wednesday, just before 10 p.m., it is The rush is manageable, a small group is sitting at the bar with a beer. A couple orders two cyclists just in time, then the bartender Sophie looks at the alarm clock that is on the shelf behind her: It’s time, closing time. Then a guest comes in through the door, very excited: “Is there anything else? Or am I too late?” Too late, says Sophie, she’s sorry. “A go!” Says the guest and turns to go, but then he has to laugh: no beer after ten, a bit bizarre again.

In the Holy Home, a couple orders a cyclist in good time.

(Photo: Robert Haas)

“That’s kind of a death sentence for a bar, isn’t it?” Sophie says it very calmly, but she really has reason to be upset. In a shop like the Holy Home, things don’t really start until ten; now it’s dead legs after eleven. “At midnight it looks much better with the tips, too,” says Sophie, “and the sales that we lack now cannot be made up at other times”. Maybe the Holy Home will open earlier on Sundays now, but that won’t do much. Not at all for Sophie, she is paid by the hour. “In any case, you can’t live from an evening like today.”

This is what seasoned landlords say in the old town, around the Frauenkirche, for example. Around half past ten only small groups sit at the tables in most inns, the Leger am Dom restaurant could now also be called Schee empty am Dom: It is already closed. The Augustiner Klosterwirt is still the busiest place. A couple of regulars do meet. “We come here every four weeks,” says one man, “we are seven people. So today we had to split ourselves over two tables with a plexiglass wall in between. What a nonsense!” Sure, Corona is not to be trifled with – but the so to speak “supervised drinking” in restaurants is apparently hardly dangerous: “Or has someone actually been infected in a pub in Munich? You should know that from the lists.”

Gregor Lemke, the monastery landlord himself, asks himself that. He is also the spokesman for the Munich city center inns, and he is now a little bit desperate. “The cancellations are now hailing in, making you dizzy,” he says. It was just another event with 100 people that was canceled. Worst of all, despite the low risk of infection, politicians came up with measures against the catering trade: “The only thing that remains with the guests is the feeling that it is dangerous in the pub, although it can be proven that it is not true.”


Munich-Westend: Breakfast at Das Kulinariat – Munich

The culinary office has been around for a little longer. So far it has not been a restaurant, but an event location. The small restaurant in the middle of the Westend can still be rented for private parties. But now you can have breakfast there and – if autumn still allows it – best between tomatoes, thyme, Swiss chard and physalis in the courtyard.

If the pub gardens along Schwanthalerstraße are almost too crowded for a really relaxed breakfast on a warm autumn day, you can easily get a seat in the culinary shop, or inside the restaurant in bad weather. This has the advantage that you can watch the cook preparing the food.

What is there and what does it cost?

The best right away: A large part of what ends up on the plate comes from the raised beds that line the cozy inner courtyard, or is at least from farmers in the area and in organic quality. So you know where it’s coming from – and you can taste it too. Therefore it doesn’t matter at all that there are comparatively few dishes on the breakfast menu.

For those who are hungry there is a “Prima Colazione”, which means in good German: toasted white bread with ricotta and honey (5.50 euros). For those who prefer something luscious in the morning, we recommend the Egg Benedict (15.50 euros), which, unlike in most cafés or restaurants, is served with, of course, Swiss chard from the garden. The poached egg is refined with hollandaise sauce and chive oil.

It is classic Bavarian with the “Tagwerk Breakfast” (11.50 euros), which consists of a pretzel and organic white sausages. Those who prefer it sweet can choose between “Leicht & Frisch” (8.50 euros) or “Junky Monkey” (7.50 euros), the former being a yogurt with fresh fruit and homemade granola and the latter being a toasted banana bread which is served with a piece of salted butter.

The breakfast menu is only valid on Saturdays in the restaurant in Westend.

(Photo: Sebastian Gabriel)

If that’s still not enough, you can take a look at the lunch menu, because the piadina and sandwiches on it are also excellent as a hearty breakfast – and they are not only available on Saturdays, but on all days when the culinary department has opened.

We particularly recommend the “No Avocado Bread” (10.50 euros), which, as the name suggests, does without the green fruit and still – or perhaps because of that – tastes delicious. Instead of guacamole, the chia hazelnut bread is coated with a pea cream, a colorful mix of young lettuce, cress and fresh herbs acts as a topping and, if you want, a fried egg (2.50 euros extra).

The operators of the Kulinariat save themselves extravaganzas on the drinks menu and rely on tried and tested classics: Various Fritz and Charitea lemonades and spritzers (between 2.80 and 3.90 euros) as well as espresso (2.20 euros), cappuccino (2.90 Euros) or Flat White (3.60 euros).

Inside you can watch the cook preparing the dishes.

(Photo: Sebastian Gabriel)

Who goes there and how long do you stay?

The courtyard of the culinary office in particular is a place to linger, because as soon as you enter you have the feeling that you are no longer in a bustling city, but somewhere in a secluded spot away from the hustle and bustle. But inside the restaurant, too, it is so cozy that you like to linger.

The audience may not be as hip as in the nearby Bean Batter, but they are definitely deeply relaxed. Many guests come alone with a book or newspaper and are only torn out of their thoughts by very attentive staff who ask for further requests.

Das Kulinariat, Schwanthalerstraße 143, 80339 Munich, Tue. to Fri. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., www.daskulinariat.de


Palais in Munich: bar instead of club because of Corona – Munich

The motto in the Palais has recently been: “Meet – Drink – Swing”. But you could also simply say: everything, just don’t dance. Because, as the doorman at the entrance makes it unmistakably clear: if you dance, you fly. The blame for the dance ban is – how could it be otherwise – the corona virus. The corona crisis is also the reason why the nightclub had to close around six months ago.

Unlike many other clubs, where you are still standing in front of closed doors, the operators of the Palais have now come up with a new concept and quickly converted their club to bar operation. And so that the district administration department does not close the shop again so soon after the reopening, rocking to the beat of the music is currently the highest of emotions.

But turning a former strip club, which was a late night nightclub until the beginning of the year, into a normal bar – can that really work? After all, the Palais not far from the main train station has so far lived from excess. At the moment, however, partying with the handbrake on is the order of the day, for the sake of distance regulations. And so it feels strange at first to climb the steps past nude photographs and to enter the dark room, which is only illuminated by stroboscopic light, for the first time well before midnight.

On the other hand, in places like these you quickly lose a sense of what is going on outside. The only indication that a global pandemic is keeping the world in suspense is perhaps that you have to put on your mask yourself to go to the toilet and that the bartenders always wear one. But that has long since become normal.


Arnulfstraße 16-18


Drinks: Beer, hard liquor

Audience: Friends of electronic dance music

The atmosphere: clubbig

Opening hours: Thu. 9 pm-4pm, Fr. and Sa. 21 to 5 p.m.

Instead of deafening music and sweaty bodies rubbing against each other on the dance floor, you can now sit in a small group on one of the swings covered in leopard print and concentrate on good conversations and alcohol consumption while listening to music at a comfortable volume. It fits very well that there is always happy hour from 9 p.m. to 10 p.m. Long drinks then cost five euros, beer only 2.50 euros. They call it kamikaze in the palace. Can you understand it to mean that short, heavy noises caused by Corona are preferable to long, heavy nights? It doesn’t matter, the main thing is that you can swing.

Address: Arnulfstrasse 16-18, 80335 Munich, phone: 089/50073131, opening hours: Thursday 9 p.m. to 3 a.m., Friday and Saturday 9 p.m. to 5 a.m., info@palaisclub.de


Munich: How bars and inns deal with Corona – Munich

“Summer in the city”, sing the three Glacier shredder right in front of the copper brew kettles, “It’s summer again, summer in the city.” The fact that the band triggers a cautiously good, but not exactly euphoric mood at Paulaner am Nockherberg, has of course to do with the cold, wet five degrees Celsius in the city on this Friday evening. But inside it’s cozy and warm at the Wirtshaus-Wiesn. The mood brake has another name that even the very best gastronomy marketing cannot forget and that accompanies you quite intensively on a nightly pub crawl: Corona.

It is “difficult”, “you can tell that the people would like to celebrate”, says Max Gutsmiedl, who stands in front of the brew kettle in costume with an accordion. But party, that’s not possible now because of the pandemic. As a professional musician, he also bitterly felt the effects of this. Of 180 appointments in this corona year, a good 120 were completely canceled. And the abrupt changeover of his teaching activities at the University of Regensburg to online operation, where he teaches “practical piano playing” with a teaching assignment, was also “not that easy”. Gutsmiedl knows just as well as the battered restaurateurs what is going on. “I’m happy that ‘at least there is and that d’Leut also stick to the rules very much.”

Die “Gletscherfetzer” Christian Mosinger, Max Gutsmiedl, Alex Hackl (v. li.) am Nockherberg.

(Photo: Sebastian Gabriel)

On the Nockherberg, the guests actually obey the rules this Friday evening, but that’s not the case everywhere. At the weekend, the police reported three major missions due to violations of the infection protection requirements: In a bar in Ludwigsvorstadt, in a bar in Berg am Laim, where almost a hundred guests were gathered, and at a private party in Freimann with more than 130 Guests, where neither distances were kept nor masks were worn – and it will now be expensive.

Gutsmiedl knows how to classify it all. During these days he would be standing with his two glacier fellows Alexander Hackl (guitar, Styrian harmonica) and Christian Mosinger (accordion, vocals) with the Chapel Schwarzfischer on the podium in the Schottenhamel festival tent at the real Oktoberfest. He’s always been there for the past eleven years. Now he is grateful that there is at least the Wirtshaus-Wiesn, with performances in the Nockherberg restaurant. The ballroom is not in use – and in the restaurant at 8.45 p.m., i.e. at the best time, it looks as if the landlord has just unlocked: Free spaces between the guests – because of the necessary distance. Although the restaurant is fully occupied according to Corona rules and the operations manager at the entrance has to politely refuse new guests.

On the Nockherberg, the guests actually obey the rules this Friday evening, but that’s not the case everywhere.

(Photo: Sebastian Gabriel)

Not only the staff at the Paulaner pay close attention to compliance with the requirements, but also Max Gutsmiedl, who is something like the extra guardian in the large restaurant. The man from the Bavarian Forest alternates the usual Wiesn animation hymn “Prosit der Gemütlichkeit”, performed here with great musical virtuosity, with loving references to wearing a mask. And when he sees a group of rather tipsy young people in the distance, who get up from their table without protecting themselves or others with a mask, the glacier breakers sometimes stop the Landler they are singing. “All of us put our masks on when we are sitting at the table, that goes for the table back there!” Calls Gutsmiedl into the microphone.

Corona even has an impact on music. They are happy to play “Hey there’s a venison ragout” on request, and incidentally with very beautiful singing, and if you like, you can enjoy a “Venison shovel with wild herbs and Kaisersemmel dumplings” (24 euros). But “Cordula Grün”, which is requested about 20 times a day by the beer-loving audience, is not. If there was too much party, it shouldn’t be. Gutsmiedl is not only a music teacher, but also a music psychologist and knows how to adjust the mood so that everything runs smoothly. After a cool Spider-Murphy-Gang-Number of pieces from their repertoire of around 500 pieces, they just unpack an old, cozy hit: “My darling has fawn eyes”. That reassures us, “we have it relatively under control”. The plant manager probably means that when she enthusiastically praises: “The boys are really good!” Dosing artist.

The question of the correct, i.e. resident-compatible, dose of nocturnal noise from partiers has been settled on this Friday evening at Gärtnerplatz: At five degrees Celsius and rain showers, only a small, young group pulls onto the steps of the theater, it’s quiet outside. And inside too, right around the corner, in the Holy Home, a very cozy bar where Niko Hasselt and colleague Biene ensure that the shop stays loosely filled and doesn’t get full.

“Supervised drinking” is currently that, says Biene, because they have to take care of those who are no longer completely sober, especially with masks. Another reason, adds Niko Hasselt, because “everyone is terribly afraid of winter” – for which they hope to be able to run their outdoor café on Reichenbachstrasse under a roof. They first had to close in March and then offered a kiosk with to-go supplies at the end of May.

“We were only able to stay afloat with out-of-home sales,” he says. Later, a few toasts were added to the range so that we could reopen as a restaurant. The cheese-ham or goat cheese-honey toasts cost 3.50 euros and have proven themselves, only the “Toast Elvis” has not yet been ordered. Elvis is supposed to have eaten himself, but who in Munich likes the combination of banana, peanut butter and maple syrup, and all of it fried?

Bartender Jakob Habel.

(Photo: Sebastian Gabriel)

A few hundred meters further on, in the Zephyr cocktail bar on Baaderstrasse, four couples are turtling and don’t have to feel pressured by the audience because everyone is at a distance. In addition to mixing, barkeeper Jakob Habel also manages the admission himself. At midnight, he has to turn away six recognizably tipsy men who had previously been to the Munich Hofbräuhaus. “I have the table for you, but I’m only allowed to place three there at the moment.” They briefly consult outside, split up, three come back. This is how it works Someone demands “the absolute hardest alcohol you have there”, gets a “Long Island” and is satisfied.

“You can go on holiday here despite Corona,” says a sign behind the bar. This is of course optimistic about purpose, as is the case with the Wirtshaus-Wiesn, which cannot and may not like a real Oktoberfest. But it’s no longer summer in the city either.