For a day after a party, a declaration of love or a tax, it is so comforting! This is also the opinion of Julien Ponceblanc who, in his Diary of a soup lover, tells through the menu his passion for veloutés, consommés and other soups.
With Julien Ponceblanc, soup is quite a story! Or rather stories. This ESSEC graduate has decided to dedicate his professional life to him, notably by creating Greenshoot, a brand of fresh soups. Better, today he devotes a passionate book to him, Diary of a Soup Lover (1). In these pages, he declares his love for soups and other broths. Far from conceiving yet another practical bible on the subject, he chose to link each recipe to an experience or a season, like a diary or an almanac. “I wanted to evoke slices of life, to spend our time milling through soup recipes. But I also wanted to show that soup is a fabulous product, which allows for endless combinations, depending on daily situations. It’s a bit like ice cream, my other love, ”he explains, blowing hot and cold.
He therefore delivers insightful ideas, adapted to moments of grace and depression that are common to all. Hangover? For Julien Ponceblanc, that of Sunday February 6 is memorable… It is also the occasion of a text in the form of mea culpa – “I am so badly that I think I would prefer to die”, “I did not im -por-te-quoi ”-, which will lead to the creation of an antidote: the day after party soup, with cauliflower, coconut, cashew and turmeric. Marriage is so enticing that it is also recommended on migraine-free days. As for the “Love Breaking Soup”, a rhubarb, raspberry and Golden Syrup gazpacho, imagined on May 11, we feel that there is also a lot of experience in there.
“I want to create a bond, a communion with the reader, by sharing moments that touch us all, insists Julien Ponceblanc. The “Evening tax return soup”, a cold consomme made from pink radish, lamb’s lettuce and coriander, is therefore deliberately sour! ” Added to this desire for linking is a penchant for travel and a good dose of humor and subversion. Caroline Faccioli’s photos, both refined and unexpected, reflect this bias. But also, of course, some creations like the “Ronald” soup, born on Wednesday April 6, spring day on which floats the irrepressible desire for a good big hamburger. Rather than feel guilty, Julien Ponceblanc imagined his balanced and creamy version of the Big Mac, which combines tomatoes, sweet and sour pickles, onions, honey mustard… To be tasted without guilt and with a smile on your lips.
Offering a dish that makes sense is one thing. But no question of intellectualizing it. “Soup is basic, modest. Some would have us believe that it is a complex art. It is quite the reverse. In French cuisine, there are a lot of compulsory exercises. A lamb stew, for example, we can reinterpret it but not invent it. This is not the case with the soup that you can (re) create at will. It’s a blank canvas to play with tastes and textures. My book therefore offers a grammar of soup, so that everyone acquires a few rules, then adds their own poetry, ”continues Julien Ponceblanc.
It is up to everyone, therefore, to appropriate their journal, to add their extra soul. And this without moderation, because the soup, when it is homemade, rhymes with “eating well”. “My passion for this healthy dish is a matter of atavism! My great-grandmother only cooked vegetables grown in the garden. One of my grandfathers was a winegrower, the other a baker. I grew up respecting natural and seasonal products. And this education has not left me. ” It can be seen in these pages in which the author, flexitarian, has also chosen to ban sausages and other bits of fat that can put their eye in the broth. However, he allows himself some dairy products because, let’s face it, “even the richest soup will never be as high in calories as a portion of tiramisu”!
The editorial team advises you