Faced with the coronavirus, Fashion Weeks are getting organized: for the start of the school year, the spring-summer 2021 collections presented in New York, London, Milan and Paris will take place but virtual fashion is still very present.
In June and July, London, Milan and Paris presented virtual fashion weeks for the first time in their history. What will the four fashion weeks planned for September look like? Each city gradually unveils its program, in compliance with sanitary rules. Horizon tour.
In New York, Fashion Week – which will only be held over three days, from September 13 to 16 – will be virtual only. The COVID-19 pandemic has impacted American fashion, slowing the supply chain and temporarily halting business and retail activities. To address the concerns of the fashion industry, le Council of Fashion Designers of America a created a digital platform, RUNWAY360, which will allow brands to present their collections in a variety of formats and when it suits them.
“The COVID-19 pandemic has shaken the global fashion industry and hit New York particularly hard”, said Steven Kolb, chief executive of CFDA. “Fashion Week is a critical time when brands are able to connect with the press, retailers and consumers, and I’m proud of how quickly the CFDA has evolved to meet the needs of the industry by creating RUNWAY360 We are excited to see 10 new US brands on the program – many for the first time – that may not have had the opportunity to share their collections with a global audience without access to RUNWAY360. to highlight the incredible talent of Harlem’s Fashion Row and to announce the return of New York Men’s Day (editor’s note, the day of men’s clothing designers)“.
The official program kicks off on September 13 with Jason Wu and Harlem’s Fashion Row, and ends with Tom Ford on September 16. Fashion Week is reduced to three days due to the absence of many brands like Michael Kors. However, we will note the return of Alabama Chanin, Alice + Olivia, Anna Sui, Badgley Mischka, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carolina Herrera, Chromat, Claudia Li, Dennis Basso, Eckhaus Latta, Jonathan Simkhai, Marchesa and Marchesa Notte, Marina Moscone, Naeem Khan , Nicole Miller, Rebecca Minkoff, Veronica Beard and Zero + Maria Cornejo. Ten names are also new to the program: Aknvas, Anne Klein, Colleen Allen, Dur Doux, Duncan, Frederick Anderson, Frère, Imitation of Christ, Oak & Acorn, Venicew, Wiederhoeft and Wolk Morais.
London Fashion Week from September 17 to 22, traditionally feminine, will this year include collections for women and men and will revive parades in the flesh, in addition to presentations broadcast on the internet. Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, June Fashion Week was held entirely online. The same platform will be used for the September edition (freely accessible to creators, journalists and the public) but a few spectators will once again be able to follow the models parading on the London catwalks live.
This year, only seven parades and events will take place in physics in the capital, while around twenty will be broadcast online. The other 50 will be 100% digital. The British brand Burberry will kick off the week, which will feature more than 80 designers.
As for its male counterpart in June, September Fashion Week – traditionally devoted to women’s fashion – will now be “gender neutral” (without distinction of sex), highlighting both men’s, women’s and mixed collections. All the next London Fashion Weeks will follow the same pattern.
“London Fashion Week is one of the few international events held in London, proving the resilience, creativity and innovation of this industry in times of crisis”, welcomed the British Fashion Council, the body responsible for promoting British fashion. According to the BFC, the fashion sector, which employs 890,000 people, contributed € 39 billion directly to the UK’s GDP in 2019, an increase of 9.4% from 2018.
In July, Milan kicked off its first virtual fashion week due to coronavirus, with however two meetings in the flesh, D&G and Etro. About forty houses then answered the call for this Fashion Week “phygitaleMilan Fashion Week from September 22 to 28 will offer a mix of physical catwalks (Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani …) and virtual presentations (Missoni, Philipp Plein …).
The house of Valentino, which usually paraded in Paris, announced that it would be unfaithful to France: “This unprecedented moment, due to the Covid-19 pandemic, has led the group to reconsider the place of presentation of the new Valentino collection, choosing to present it this season in Milan rather than in Paris”. “Paris is the city that has always hosted our shows and represents the DNA of Valentino. The situation we are currently experiencing has forced us to make an unusual decision”, said Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Milan is a new opportunity, a great project that I am developing with my teams, on the concept of identity”, he added. “In the current scenario, we find ourselves forced to make up front decisions to protect our most important resources, people, and explore alternative possibilities to maintain our brand greatness.”, underlined for his part the boss of Valentino, Jacopo Venturini. “We believe it is more ethical to present the new parade in Italy, in Milan. We firmly believe that this project will help to underline the importance of belonging to a world of fashion represented both by the National Chamber of Italian fashion and the (French) Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion “, he added.
As of May, Giorgio Armani had meanwhile unveiled his plans for the next male and female fashion shows planned as part of Milan Fashion Week. Considering that the current situation linked to the pandemic will unfortunately not allow the parades to be staged in their usual way, the designer has chosen two different ways to present the collections, both without guests. LThe Italian fashion designer will present Emporio Armani for men and women in the form of a video broadcast on September 24 on emporioarmani-buildingdialogues.com, on the brand’s social networks and on the Camera della moda platform (the fashion chamber ). In the video, filmed at Armani headquarters, Via Bergognone in Milan, Emporio Armani clothing will be worn by models as well as young actors, singers, dancers … with links to the brand community. As for the Giorgio Armani collections for men and women, they will be broadcast for the first time on television, on September 26 on the Italian channel La7, as well as on armani.com, on the brand’s social networks and on the platform of the Camera della moda.
Due to coronavirus, the fall – winter 2020/21 haute couture was presented exclusively on the internet from July 6 to 8, 2020 as was the Menswear Spring-Summer 2021 Fashion Week held from July 9 to 13, 2020.
Paris Fashion Week will take place from September 28 to October 6 and will feature physical and / or digital events. All of these events will be broadcast on the dedicated platform of the FHCM and will be relayed by its network of international partners. The organization of physical events will comply with the recommendations of the health authorities and the public authorities. More than 80 houses will present their spring-summer 2021 collections in the official calendar.
As every season, new houses join the official calendar: Ami (France / 2011), Cécilie Bahnsen (Denmark / 2015), Enfants Riches Déprimés (USA / 2012), Ester Manas (France / 2019), Gabriela Hearst (USA / 2015) ), Mossi (France / 2012), Situationist (Georgie / 2018), SR Studio LA. IT. (USA / 2016), Vejas (France / 2019), Wales Bonner (UK / 2015).
Some houses have already announced that they will not be present. Thus: end of April, Saint Laurent had indicated his withdrawal from the 2020 Fashion Weeks calendar. “Aware of radical changes” induced by the coronavirus crisis, the brand will present its collections at its own pace “guided by the needs of creativity” had then hammered the Belgian creator of St. Lawrence, Anthony Vaccarello.