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Japanese designer Issey Miyake dies, goodbye to the “tailor of the wind” who sculpted fabrics: he was the inventor of Steve Jobs’ iconic black crewneck

He died on August 5, just on the eve of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima that changed his life, but the news of his disappearance came only today, by his will, after the funeral was already over. Issey Miyakethe Japanese designer renamed the “Tailor of the wind”he went off a 84 years old after having radically innovated the world of fashion. He was seven years old on August 6, 1945 when the United States dropped the first atomic bomb in history on his hometown, killing 140,000 people and traumatizing the survivors for life: he survived, remaining only slightly limp, but his mother died three years later. of radiation. After having experienced all the horror of violence as an end in itself, she decided to devote his life to the search for beautyto the creation of a measured elegance and superhuman purity.

Just graduated from Tama University of Fine Arts in Tokyo, he moved to Paris to study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne school. After an interlude in New York, he returned to Tokyo, in his Japan, in 1970, and began a career as a fashion stylist and designer characterized by research on new materials and technologies, so much so that he then decided to entrust the creations of his Miyake Design Studio to his collaborator Naoki Takizawa, to be able to devote himself exclusively to research. He was thereinventor of the iconic black choker that became Steve Job’s “uniform”s but he made history especially with his own pleated, the particular stitching of the fabrics with which he gave a sculptural three-dimensionality to his garments, instantly transforming them into works of art and design. All this always with an attention to find the right mix between the ancient craft techniques of his country and the avant-garde processes he studied. Many of her dresses had the powerful lightness of an origami, molded in ultra-technical materials that well combined refined sophistication with practicality and comfort of use. He never made a gender distinction, his garments were unisex, designed to adapt to any body while always maintaining the perfect play of volumes, proportions of full and empty, and geometric that earned him the nickname of “Tailor of the wind”.

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In 1993 he was made a Knight of the Order of the Legion of Honor in France. In 2005 Miyake received the Praemium Imperiale for sculpture and in 2006 he won the Kyoto Prize for the arts and philosophy. In 2014 the Japanese artist was awarded the prestigious Compasso d’oro Adi award (Association for industrial design) for the creation of the IN-EI Issey Miyake family of lamps, made for the Italian company Artemide.

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