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GREAT JOURNEY IN THE TIAN SHAN
The Russian roped team spends ten winter days in the Tian Shan to make the first crossing of this massif, which includes 15 peaks up to 4,900 meters and a total distance of 27 km, ascending highly difficult routes.
Egor Matveenko, Tikhon von Stackelberg and Roman Abildaev They have managed to carry out a project that had been in the plans of several leading mountaineers for years. It is the complete crossing of the horseshoe of the Aksaiin it Tian Shan (Kyrgyzstan), which the Russian trio performed between February 17 and 26. In total, 27 kilometers of riding, with a summit in 15 peaks of up to 4,900 meters of altitude and overcoming routes with difficulties estimated at up to 5B (the maximum Russian grade is 6B).
As reported by Anna Piunova in Mountain.ruthe cordada was led by Egor Matveenkocon Tikhon von Stackelberg and Roman Abildaev. The latter is the one who has the greatest international projection, since he was part of the Russian-Kazakh-Kyrgyz group of the winter Snow Leopard and also participated in the expedition of Artem Braun and Vassili Pivtsov to the winter K2 2018-2019.
They began their adventure on February 17 by climbing the Box Peak (4,211 m) through the difficult route Mikhail, quoted at 5B. And they finished it ten days later, on February 26, crowning the Semionov-Tian-Shanski (4,875 m), the highest peak in the area and the highest point of the journey. How could it be otherwise, they faced temperatures well below zero degrees.
Although there isn’t much information yet about the routes they followed on each of the peaks, Mountain.ru has published a list of at least nine of the peaks that make up the Aksai Horseshoe, with their altitudes, number of routes, and difficulty of climbing. the same:
- Semionov-Tian-Shanski (4,875 m): 7 routes from 3A to 5B.
- Crown (six peaks between 4,750 m and 4,860 m): 15 routes from 2A to 3B.
- Izyskatel (4,400 m): 3 routes from 2A to 3B.
- cosmonauts (4,200 m): 1 route of 3B.
- Bailyan-Bashi (4.700 m): 3 rutas de 2B a 5A.
- Simagina (4,400 m): 3 routes from 4B to 5B.
- Free Korea (4,740 m): 20 routes from 4B to 6A+.
